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f. Land of the Giants
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Chieftain T 
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Surprise 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]
FA: Unknown, before 1975 (per Holzman)
Page Views: 1,345
Submitted By: Tony Lopez on Aug 7, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Start of Surprise

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  • Description 

    Pitch 1: Climb a white open book for 55 feet to a small tiered overhang. Step right and pull the center of the overhang to an optional belay ledge.

    Pitch 2: Step 6 feet left, move up through a slight notch, step back right, and follow weaknesses just left of the prow to the summit. Descend with a two rope rappel or two one rope rappels.


    Location 

    Begins from a nice platform below a white open book, at the left end of Land of the Giants and just right of Wine Couloir.

    Protection 

    Light rack, medium nuts. Tree with slings on summit. Bolted mid-point rap anchor


    Photos of Surprise Slideshow Add Photo
    New rappel anchor replacing the sling salad that w...
    BETA PHOTO: New rappel anchor replacing the sling salad that w...

    Comments on Surprise Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Larry S
    From: Easton, Pennsylvania
    Aug 7, 2011

    A 70m rope will just barely get you back to the start of the climb from the top rap station. You might have to unrope and do a few 3rd class moves down to the start ledge.
    By Larry S
    From: Easton, Pennsylvania
    Sep 17, 2012

    Replaced the sling-salad at the very top rap tree yesterday. Installed some beefy 1/4" galv steel cable. It's got two redundant loops routed thru hose to protect the tree and some 1/2" quicklinks.
    By John Gehrig
    From: Easton, PA
    Oct 28, 2013

    A new mid-cliff bolted rappel station has been installed.

    Much better that the old tree & nut that used to be there. A 60m will get you to the base in 2 rappels again.
    By Gordon88
    From: Easton, Pennsylvania
    Sep 29, 2014

    1st pitch was really good. Second pitch was an easy grassy chimney/gully. I would lower from the rings on top of Pitch one if I were to do it again..
    By Larry S
    From: Easton, Pennsylvania
    Sep 30, 2014

    Hey, Gordon - At some point on P2 (I think it's at a big horizontal weakness) there's a spot where you can move left into the gully - which is easier, but as you noticed, not very noteworthy; or you can continue up / slightly right - which is more exciting and exposed, but might up the grade a little.
    By joeforte
    From: palmerton, pa
    Oct 1, 2014

    I agree with Larry, Up and right is a much better option. Actually, I prefer to climb the entire second pitch out right towards the arete. This might bump the difficulty to 5.6ish, but it much cleaner and more exposed.
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