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This is a third pitch variation to Surprise that improves upon that route with a slightly harder but much cleaner last pitch.
P1) Start in the middle of the wall and climb a short right-facing corner system (thin pro), then continue up and left on unprotected but very easy face (5.0) to a 3 bolt anchor. P2) Up and right along a ramp/flake system to reach a bolt (5.8) and then into an easy right-facing corner atop which is a 3 bolt belay (the regular belay for Surprise). Clip this anchor and continue right to a separate 2 bolt anchor. P3) Steep friction face (5.9) past three bolts to a gear belay on top. Descend via Bye Gully.
bolts, pro to 3"
|Comments on Surprise Direct
|By Adam Kimmerly|
Jun 25, 2006
Fun pitch, but a serious lead. The first bolt is 20 feet out from the belay, and the moves just before the bolt are not trivial. Another 25 ft runout leads to the second bolt (actually doubled bolts.) The third bolt lies on easy terrain above where it's not really needed.
The pitch is fun, but I felt more "R" than the first pitch. I'm not sure why "Surprise" gets an R but this pitch doesn't.
|By C Miller|
Jun 27, 2006
Thanks Adam, I've changed the protection rating on this.
|By Brandon R.|
From: San Mateo, CA
Sep 25, 2006
I remember the topo showing a bolt on the third pitch that isn't there in reality. Very serious pitch!
|By Robin like the bird|
From: mountain center ,CA
May 9, 2010
climbed this the other day and it was heads up for sure. I think that i must of done some variation because, the second bolt that i clipped was not the double set of bolts but a bolt about ten or so feet down to the right of the double set of bolts. Running it out the the double set is training for Valhalla in my option. moving to the right was not that hard. Also I did not end up clipping the last bolt that was off to the left I just followed easy terrain up and right
Jul 26, 2010
rating: 5.9 R
Did this one yesterday. 1st pitch easy and fun. Place a small piece or 2 and head up easy ground to the anchor. 2nd pitch a rope stretcher with some thin and challenging sections for a 5.9. I set up a belay right behind the tree (small/medium cams). 3rd pitch is easy 3rd/4th class to the top. 2 raps and a bit of downclimbing to get back to the ground.