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Routes in (1) School Gate
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[Redacted] S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Above the Groove S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Bull King Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Choose Your Size T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Disco Fistcrack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Fight S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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First Corner S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Nowhere Man S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Oh No! S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Oh! S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Piranha S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Reincarnation S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Right Disco Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Seacrack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Seaface T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Staircase T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Stairway To Heaven T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Stepover S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Stone Z S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Surprise Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Tiger's Tooth S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Triple Cruxes S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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V-Groove S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Warm-up Route S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,368 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Nov 10, 2009 |
| Admins: | Nate Ball |
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Description
A fun route with a lot of variety, pretty good pro, and interesting climbing most of the way.
Climb up to the ledge and over a small shrub on it, leading left into a good crack system. Protect overhead and jam up and over a small roof on good handcracks (crux, 5.9 or 5.10 depending on hand size). Continue upon interesting mixed cracks at the 5.8 level to encounter discontinuous cracks. Pro is never lacking, as one can go left or right to join the crack of your next choosing as soon as the one you are in runs out. The climbing up top is fun 5.9 and might feel pumpy to climbers who fail to read the sequences immediately. Finish at a bolted anchor and belay or lower to the ground.
Climb up to the ledge and over a small shrub on it, leading left into a good crack system. Protect overhead and jam up and over a small roof on good handcracks (crux, 5.9 or 5.10 depending on hand size). Continue upon interesting mixed cracks at the 5.8 level to encounter discontinuous cracks. Pro is never lacking, as one can go left or right to join the crack of your next choosing as soon as the one you are in runs out. The climbing up top is fun 5.9 and might feel pumpy to climbers who fail to read the sequences immediately. Finish at a bolted anchor and belay or lower to the ground.
Location
This climb ascends the left-most crack system on the East Face of the School Gate rock, this is just left of the large left-facing 5.4 corner system called 'Staircase.' From the ground scramble up from the right (as for the beginning of Staircase) and belay on a ledge 10' up, or down below and left to start the route from the ground.
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