|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 80'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13 [details]|
|FA:||John Tuttle, Norman Boles and George Watson|
|Submitted By:||Daniel S on May 16, 2007|
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|Comments on Surplus Cheaper Hands||Add Comment|
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By Kaleem Khwaja
From: Emeryville, California
May 29, 2013
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
The Reid guide calls this .10c R, but I don't think it deserves the R now that all 4 1/4" bolts have been replaced (thank you!).
I also think it's a tad softer than Poker Face (10b) and Blackballed (10b), though more runout and dirtier.
The first bolt placement has me scratching my head as it's one move out of reach from a great stance and forces a ~10a move to get to it. If I were bolting this ground up I can't imagine not placing it one foot lower. But hey, makes for a little more spice I guess.
By King Tut
Aug 21, 2016
|@Kaleem: It was put there on the FA after a long winter of no climbing with pent up energy for "spiciness" that in retrospect should have been a little lower, then the next stance would have been used, but it was felt to be too close to the other to use at the time. The original route goes more or less straight over the last bolt (crux) to the bolted anchor, others have gone up the dirty seam to the tree and left slings (variation). we lost interest in continuing the route but others have extended it, dunno about how good the climbing.|