Crux is the face friction climbing between old quarter inch bolts. The climb starts out on a nice hands to fingers crack before petering out onto face climbing. The first bolt you come across (just slightly to the left and 8 Ft above were the crack peters out) is a nice modern 3/8 bolt. After that, up and left some more on thin friction climbing past three more bolts.
Climb the first crack left of the 5.6 chimney start of Royal Arches route. (Just left of Age of Industry)
1 1/2 inch to 1/2 inch cams for the crack, quick draws for bolts. Sling the tree above or use the three bolt anchor of Age of Industry.
|By Kaleem Khwaja|
From: Emeryville, California
May 29, 2013
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ E2 5b PG13
The Reid guide calls this .10c R, but I don't think it deserves the R now that all 4 1/4" bolts have been replaced (thank you!).
I also think it's a tad softer than Poker Face (10b) and Blackballed (10b), though more runout and dirtier.
The first bolt placement has me scratching my head as it's one move out of reach from a great stance and forces a ~10a move to get to it. If I were bolting this ground up I can't imagine not placing it one foot lower. But hey, makes for a little more spice I guess.