|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 80'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]|
|FA:||John Tuttle, Norman Boles and George Watson|
|Submitted By:||Daniel S on May 16, 2007|
|Comments on Surplus Cheaper Hands||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Kaleem Khwaja
From: Emeryville, California
May 29, 2013
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
The Reid guide calls this .10c R, but I don't think it deserves the R now that all 4 1/4" bolts have been replaced (thank you!).
I also think it's a tad softer than Poker Face (10b) and Blackballed (10b), though more runout and dirtier.
The first bolt placement has me scratching my head as it's one move out of reach from a great stance and forces a ~10a move to get to it. If I were bolting this ground up I can't imagine not placing it one foot lower. But hey, makes for a little more spice I guess.