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Rincon - L of Center Route
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Surf's Up 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Charlie Bently?
Fixed Hardware: 1 Lead Bolt [details]
Page Views: 3,400
Submitted By: Taylor Roy on Apr 23, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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BETA PHOTO: Topo to aid the confusion of shared starts, anchor...
Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Since the starting edges are about ten feet off the ground, most people have to stick clip the first piton, and then hoist up to the establishing holds to begin this route. Once on the wall, you immediately encounter a series of small crimps that lead you into the corner (V5/6). From here, clip another piton (use a runner), and traverse left along an obvious flake to a ring bolt. Gather your strength and then commit to the very shouldery repoint crux (V6/7). From here, work your way up the parallel, vertical, offset features (11-) placing safe, small gear (TCUs and nuts) about every 10 feet.

Although this climb looks intimidating, it is not a headpoint route. In terms of permanent protection, safety, and movement, it is nearer to sport climbing than trad climbing. With that said, this route still requires solid gear placement skills and deserves a lot of respect.


Location 

This route starts in a large corner about 15 feet left of the Center Route. A 60 meter rope will easily get you down.


Protection 

Quickdraws, a stick clip, and some small TCUs and nuts.

The anchor consists of two pitons with some webbing and carabiners. If you toprope this, you may want to back it up. This anchor can be easily reached by climbing the Center Route and then traversing left.



Photos of Surf's Up Slideshow Add Photo
Eric Decaria sends. Photo: Andy Mann.
Eric Decaria sends. Photo: Andy Mann.
Joe sending "Surf's Up".
Joe sending "Surf's Up".
Bruce Bundy on early attempts to free climb Surf's Up, photo: Bob Horan Collection.
Bruce Bundy on early attempts to free climb Surf's...
Dusty cranks up into the "sentry box" of Surf's Up on a cold Jan day.
Dusty cranks up into the "sentry box" of Surf's Up...
Joe putting the finishing touches on Surf's Up.
Joe putting the finishing touches on Surf's Up.
Comments on Surf's Up Add Comment
Show which comments
By Blake Cash
Mar 14, 2010

Opening boulder problem is worlds harder (for me) than the 2nd boulder problem. Awesome route, however.

By Dusty
From: Fort Collins
Mar 15, 2010

Hey, Blake, either I need your beta for the upper crux or you need my beta for the lower crux! That upper crux feels desperate, especially after the lower one.

By Ol' Toby
From: WA
Apr 3, 2014
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

First crux is sharp and techy, second is blocky and powerful. The 5.11 climbing after the crux is tricky but solid.

Anchor has been updated and is solid.