Surf's Up  5.13a

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Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet Consensus:  5.13a [details] FA:  Charlie Bently? Fixed Hardware:  1 Lead Bolt [details] Submitted By:  Taylor Roy on Apr 23, 2007 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Topo to aid the confusion of shared starts, anchor...

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Description 

Since the starting edges are about ten feet off the ground, most people have to stick clip the first piton, and then hoist up to the establishing holds to begin this route. Once on the wall, you immediately encounter a series of small crimps that lead you into the corner (V5/6). From here, clip another piton (use a runner), and traverse left along an obvious flake to a ring bolt. Gather your strength and then commit to the very shouldery repoint crux (V6/7). From here, work your way up the parallel, vertical, offset features (11-) placing safe, small gear (TCUs and nuts) about every 10 feet.

Although this climb looks intimidating, it is not a headpoint route. In terms of permanent protection, safety, and movement, it is nearer to sport climbing than trad climbing. With that said, this route still requires solid gear placement skills and deserves a lot of respect.

Location 

This route starts in a large corner about 15 feet left of the Center Route. A 60 meter rope will easily get you down.

Protection 

Quickdraws, a stick clip, and some small TCUs and nuts.

The anchor consists of two pitons with some webbing and carabiners. If you toprope this, you may want to back it up. This anchor can be easily reached by climbing the Center Route and then traversing left.

Photos of Surf's Up Slideshow

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Bruce Bundy on early attempts to free climb Surf's...	Eric Decaria sends. Photo: Andy Mann.	Dusty cranks up into the "sentry box" of Surf's Up...
Joe sending "Surf's Up".	Joe putting the finishing touches on Surf's Up.