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Playa Acapulquito Bluffs (Old Man's)
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Surf's Not Up 

Surf's Not Up 

Hueco: V2 Font: 5+

   
Type:  Boulder, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  Hueco: V2 Font: 5+ [details]
FA: Stephane Fitch
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 127
Submitted By: Stephane Fitch on Jan 6, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: Your hands will follow the line in this photo. You...

Description 

This route begins on a jug near the groin at the far end of the first section of the Playa Acapulquito boulders. It begins with a 15-foot traverse to the left, your hands working across a long series of good holds on a seam of hardened, stained rock relatively low on the wall. As the entire base of this climb is recessed, you'll have to hunt around creatively for footholds—and throw a few heel hooks when working past a deep cave section. Turn upwards once you spot the distinct V above your head. Once you get up on the wall, be careful not to yank too hard on any jugs, as the rock becomes a little fragile near the top. Go for the slopers instead.


Location 

You can't climb this at high tide. Walking from Playa Acapulquito, you'll see a set of man-made stairs chopped into the bluffs. Step around the first outcropping of rock (which offers some decent grips for beginner climbers and folks who want to warm up a bit before they go big) and you'll see the first big section of the bluffs, which I call Crab Rock. (There was a crab hiding on the rock the first day I stopped by.) Look for the beginning of the route tucked into the groin at the far right of the bluff.


Protection 

Crash pad.



Photos of Surf's Not Up Slideshow Add Photo
My left hand is not on a hold here. It's mid-air and heading for the distinct V in the rock just a few inches further up. Once you get your hand on that hold, the difficulty of the climb eases up considerably.
My left hand is not on a hold here. It's mid-air a...
You'll want to avoid this position if you can. Not the distinctive groin area to my right, where you'll find the big jug that is the start hold for this route.
You'll want to avoid this position if you can. Not...
Almost done with the traverse. And getting pretty tired.
Almost done with the traverse. And getting pretty ...
As you work past the cave section, you'll want to throw a couple of heel hooks.
As you work past the cave section, you'll want to ...
Phew. From here, things ease up.
Phew. From here, things ease up.
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