Surfing The Swell
||Trad, 7 pitches, 1400', Grade III
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]|
|FA: ||Paul Ross, Layne and Sheriden Potter.March 12/ 2002|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Page Views: ||1,520|
|Submitted By: ||USBRIT on Mar 12, 2002|
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Surfing The Swell Area A Triple Slab Buttress are...
This is the first route to be climbed on the Eastern Reef Slabs.The FA party thought the climb would be about 600' instead it turned out to be 1400' and the climb had to be rappelled as the back of the slab overhangs about 400'.
P1)The climb starts at the lowest part of a clean white slab down left of the chocolate topped colored wave.(small cairn).The first pro bolt is at about 60'. From here the difficulties increase..two more bolts to belay on ledge to the left.5.9R 140'
P2)Follow crack above then traverse left on a line of flakes until one can climb up between large spikes. Anchor on flake or drilled piton 25' up to right. 5.8R 170'
P3) Straight up the edge above gully to bolt belay. 5.7R 200'
P4) Follow edge to bolt belay 5.6R 200'
P5) Up easy grooves to the hidden garden 5.0 250'
P6) Move about 50' left then climb the white open slab (left of big gully) to drilled piton.5.5R 200'
P7) Just to the left is a thin black dyke which is followed to the black block at the top of the climb. Two bolt anchor . 5.6R 200'.
Only eight pieces of pro was used on the whole route.Gear.. Take a few friends #1 to #3 .Possibly a Hand drill and a few extra bolts to back up single bolt belays as the FA party ran out !Two 60m ropes. The first ascent took 7 hours with a party of three up and down.
Descent:- Rap the route. Below is a photo with 5 routes marked on what we call The Surfing The Swell area . Surfing was the first route climbed on the slabs.....A).Triple Slab Buttress area . B).Sinister Slab.III.6 pitches.5.7R 1200'.C).Suduction of Stone.III.8 pitches.5.7+R.1600'.D).Tsumami III. 6 pitches. 5.9R.1760'. E).Surfing the Swell. III. 7 pitches 5.9R. 1400'F).Fairy Slab.II 3 pitches.5.6x.1000'
Some Cams ,slings , stoppers,Two 9mm x 200' ropes carry a small bolt kit may be useful!.
Arrow shows climbers on the FA arriving at the top...