It's game on around this neck of the woods! We were blessed with a small but consistent NW swell earlier in the week and I got two good sessions at Noriega's here in my back yard. The next day the forerunners of this swell event that is happening now came through and it got too big for my comfort level. I went down the beach to Kanaha and took a peek. At first glance I wasn't impressed by the wave but the air was so still and the ocean just looked so dreamy that I had to paddle out. The after work crowd had not assembled so the line up was very manageable. I noticed that many of my friends were out there and the vibe was really cool. I got what was probably my best left of the season right away and that was followed by an incredible head and a half right that held up for ever. After those two waves the vibe changed with more and more surfers in the water. Still the paddle in vibe was ok but there became a contingent of shoulder hopping SUP'ers that were paddling for every thing and in the way every wave. When cleanup sets came through it was literally a yard sale and there was not safe route down the line so I went in feeling that I had had a great session. After three days of paddling I decided to give my sore arm a rest and went out to Jaws and shot over 500 images of some of the best big wave paddle in surfers in the world. Jammie Mitchell,Greg Long,Shane Dorian,Peter Mell,Ian Walsh,and the list goes on and on. It was still firing when I left but after five hours of shooting I was over it. When I get around to editing the file I will post some more. Here's a shot that I took last week at Lanes.
I had a good surf session at Kanaha yesterday. I arrived just as most of the pack was getting out. My neighbor and surf legend Debbie Brown was still out and we had a great time chatting and catching some delightful over head glassy nuggets.
Once again it has just gotten out of control around here with the size of the ocean conditions. I have been out at Jaws a lot lately and it has been awesome to watch some of the best big wave surfers in the world ride some of the biggest waves in the world. January,22.2014 will go down as "Biggest Wednesday"! Many of the old tow in guys were out and a Hollywood film crew was shooting scenes for the up coming remake of "Point Break" I'll share a couple of random images now and down the road when I get time to edit and post on one of my blogs I'll post a like or two.
Point Break II @ Jaws 1-22-14 Photo: Olaf Mitchell
It has been absolutely giant here on the north shore of Maui and I haven't been in the water in a week now. I have been having a great time shooting the action at Jaws. Yesterday we had strong "Kona Winds" which are exactly opposite from our usual "Trade Wind" direction. We rarely have Kona's so many of us that are local Maui wave sailors don't even bother with them especially when they are joined by really big waves. I started out shooting at Jaws and then moved over to Lanes. It was quite a show!
Jaws 1-25-14 Photo: Olaf Mitchell
Surfing at Lanes 1-25-14 Photo: Olaf Mitchell
Kite Surfing at Lanes 1-25-14 Photo: Olaf Mitchell
Cool photos Olaf, that storm sure was crazy! The pineapple express that generated those waves hit Alaska super hard. That storm generated significant rain fall with 50+deg temps down in the valleys and caused a crazy avalanche cycle. Check out the footage of the avalanche dammed lake that is forming and blocking access to Valdez.
I have fond memories of Boca Barranca in 1986, when I was 16 yrs old.. a magic board under my feet and my legs got tired from hitting the lip so many times, felt like I was like one of the guys in the surf movies..too bad I snapped that board the day I got back to Brazil and the next board I had made kind of sucked..
It's great to see some activity on this thread. Thanks to danulu and christian. Clean rights that peal continuously for five miles. I can't imagine what that is like. Do you shuttle or paddle back? At any rate you defiantly scored Dude! As I stated up thread we have had an all time winter here on the north shore of Maui. We have had countless glassy and substantially big days. Most of those days I never put my board in my truck. I just surfed out in front of my house. There were quite a few days that were just too big to paddle at Kuau so went down to Kanaha and surfed or I just sat back and shot photos and watched the show at Lanes,Hookipa, or Jaws. Lately though we have been plagued with cold(for Maui)rainy weather with pesky on shore wind. People have still been going out but since I live here I haven't bothered. Maui is typically hands down the best wave sailing spot in the world and my back yard is the epicenter of that energy.But we have had the worst wave sailing season since I came here fifteen years ago. I will take quality surfing over wave sailing any day.
Just got back from a week long surfing, kiting, biking, and climbing climbing trip from between SC to SB. Was amazing! Got to hit Rincon on a 3-5ft day at low tide, tons of time in SC, good kiting at Pismo. I don't want to come back to reality.
Surfing on Mountain Project? I guess I can just stay here all day! Not sure why I do it to myself but I still end up checking the reports for the spots I used to surf when I was abroad in NZ. Many great waves out there and hardly ever a crowd, especially on the south island. I remember the locals complaining about it being "crowded as!" when there were 10 surfers spread out over a half mile of beach break. If you're willing to walk a couple hundred yards and pet a sheep or two on the way there's a good chance you'll have a beach to yourself.
I imagine you have this in HI and many other places as well, but there are several spots where you can bring your climbing gear and surfboard and do both on the same beach.
Josh finds a nice place to scout from. "5cm ground swell and an onshore boys!"