|Type:||Trad, 3 pitches, 250'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]|
|FA:||Dahrling & Baltz, 1976|
|Submitted By:||David Baltz on Nov 9, 2009|
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By Howard Snell
From: Belen, New Mexico
Jun 25, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
With the 2011 fire closure of the Sandias, I've looked for multi-pitch traditional routes elsewhere, but close enough to Albuquerque. Made our first El Malpais climb on Surfin' the Turf yesterday. Had a great day. The route description here is perfect and the rating seems accurate. I'll admit that our sandstone crack & chimney skills were rusty, so we grovelled on two sections of the first pitch! I carried the first pitch a few meters beyond the small tree and built a gear anchor at a flat sandy ledge. Slung the tree a couple of feet up to provide a directional keeping the rope up out of the dirt.
We used a C4 #5 and #6 in some of the crack sections of P1. Probably not absolutely necessary gear, but provided some peace of mind while I grovelled.
We walked off towards the "La Ventana Arch" because the rappel route looked susceptible to rock fall - lots of loose stuff on the ledge around the trees. That's a long hot descent so working out the rappel might be better. All the slings we saw were old (weathered grey with lichens growing on them - might have been blue 1" originally), I'd replace them for rappel.
Route stays mostly shaded until 11:30 - 12:30. It was 103 in Alubuquerque the day we climbed yet our climb was fine - Just take some water and avoid the hike to La Ventana.