Surfer Girl 5.12c
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| Type: | Trad, 160 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12c [details] |
| FA: | Todd Skinner & Beth Wald, 1984 |
| Submitted By: | Sean Nelb on Sep 4, 2011 |
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I thought THIS was a surfer girl...
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Devils Tower National Monument Lifts Current Prairie Falcon Climbing Route Closure MORE INFO >>>
07/01/2012: Because no falcon nesting activity has been observed, the prairie falcon nesting closures currently in effect will be removed on Sunday, July 1, thus opening these areas to normal recreational climbing activities. The areas to be reopened include on the northeast face, routes between and including “Belle Fourche Buttress” and “Maid in the Shaid” (routes #68 to #93), as well as the “North Face” rappel route. Separate from the falcon closure, Devils Tower National Monument has a voluntary climbing closure in effect for the month of June, out of respect for American Indian cultural traditions. For further information on climbing closures, please contact the monument’s Chief of Resource Management, Angela Wetz, at (307) 467-5283 ext 212 or Angela_Wetz@nps.gov. For general climbing information please contact the Devils Tower Climbing Office at 307-467-5283, ext. 632.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description Surfer Girl is a very open dihedral with a finger crack that you will milk for every bit of purchase it can give, even as the flaring tip jams and smearing feet push you towards air time. Good locks at intervals and excellent protection for most of the route make this demanding line actually seem doable. Work through several difficult sections to catch a rest on a ledge about halfway up. Continue up a short section of difficult wide fingers until the crack opens to hands before a traverse right to the Maid in the Shade anchors.
Location Start at the ledge on Teacher's Lounge, at the crack just left of Maid in the Shade.
Protection Many small and medium nuts and cams, mostly smaller than .5 Camalot. Larger pieces to #2 or #3 Camalot for the upper section.
By Sean Nelb From: Devils Tower, WY Sep 26, 2012
| Definitely high on the list for quality, hard Tower lines. Relentlessly sustained, with much 5.11 and 5.12 climbing even before the crux, but with a great rest afterwards. Excellent protection and clean falls. If this route has weeds on it it can be cleaned on rappel by climbing Assembly Line, skipping the anchor traverse and continuing up another 20 ft until a rightward traverse on good holds can be made to the Maid in the Shade/Surfer Girl bolts. |
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