|East and Northeast Buttress Approach
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Surfer Girl is a very open dihedral with a finger crack that you will milk for every bit of purchase it can give, even as the flaring tip jams and smearing feet push you towards air time. Good locks at intervals and excellent protection for most of the route make this demanding line actually seem doable. Work through several difficult sections to catch a rest on a ledge about halfway up. Continue up a short section of difficult wide fingers until the crack opens to hands before a traverse right to the Maid in the Shade anchors.
Start at the ledge on Teacher's Lounge, at the crack just left of Maid in the Shade.
Many small and medium nuts and cams, mostly smaller than .5 Camalot. Larger pieces to #2 or #3 Camalot for the upper section.
|By Sean Nelb|
From: Grand Junction, CO
Sep 26, 2012
Definitely high on the list for quality, hard Tower lines. Relentlessly sustained, with much 5.11 and 5.12 climbing even before the crux, but with a great rest afterwards. Excellent protection and clean falls.
If this route has weeds on it it can be cleaned on rappel by climbing Assembly Line, skipping the anchor traverse and continuing up another 20 ft until a rightward traverse on good holds can be made to the Maid in the Shade/Surfer Girl bolts.