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 ADVANCED
East and Northeast Buttress Approach
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Assembly Line 
Back to Montana 
Belle Fourche Buttress 
Broken Tree 
Buckspeck 
Burning Daylight 
Casper College 
Everlasting 
Gooseberry Jam 
Hourglass, The 
Maid in the Shade 
Missed Opportunity 
New Wave 
Patent Pending 
Pinball Wizard 
Soaring 
Spectator Sport 
Surfer Girl 
Team Ropin 
Witchie 

Surfer Girl 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 160'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Todd Skinner & Beth Wald, 1984
Page Views: 761
Submitted By: Sean Nelb on Sep 4, 2011
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I thought THIS was a surfer girl...
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Description 

Surfer Girl is a very open dihedral with a finger crack that you will milk for every bit of purchase it can give, even as the flaring tip jams and smearing feet push you towards air time. Good locks at intervals and excellent protection for most of the route make this demanding line actually seem doable. Work through several difficult sections to catch a rest on a ledge about halfway up. Continue up a short section of difficult wide fingers until the crack opens to hands before a traverse right to the Maid in the Shade anchors.


Location 

Start at the ledge on Teacher's Lounge, at the crack just left of Maid in the Shade.


Protection 

Many small and medium nuts and cams, mostly smaller than .5 Camalot. Larger pieces to #2 or #3 Camalot for the upper section.



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By Sean Nelb
From: Grand Junction, CO
Sep 26, 2012

Definitely high on the list for quality, hard Tower lines. Relentlessly sustained, with much 5.11 and 5.12 climbing even before the crux, but with a great rest afterwards. Excellent protection and clean falls.

If this route has weeds on it it can be cleaned on rappel by climbing Assembly Line, skipping the anchor traverse and continuing up another 20 ft until a rightward traverse on good holds can be made to the Maid in the Shade/Surfer Girl bolts.