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Superwave 

YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Harrison Shull, Kirk Brode - 2004
Page Views: 847
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Nov 28, 2006
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Description 

No stars in the book but classic all the way! Superwave is located on a left (west) facing wall a short distance left of the Wood Spirit tree. The wall is steep, beautiful yellow and orange rock with a single prominent roof band at mid-height. Look carefully for a bolt right at the lip of this roof -- that's Superwave. A higher bolt out right belongs to the 5.12 that shares the start.

Climb sketchy rock up to a ledge at a left-facing flake. Optional pro here and a good blue TCU in the little finger crack above protects the first hard mantle. The climbing continues to be steep and continuous up to a sit-down rest on a large, left-pointing flake below the roof. Climb up, into, and out the roof to a great horn, clip the bolt, and throw for a great horizontal. Above this is another finger slot that accepts a purple TCU or blue Alien. Step left on tenuous holds to a right-facing corner, up this halfway before stepping around to the face on the left at a horizontal break (do not continue up the right-facing corner too far!). Follow the face on generally positive holds (save another blue TCU for this section) up to one last thin section before the bolted anchor.


Protection 

Standard rack. I found a #3 Camalot helpful on the lower face before the rest flake. Lots of long runners are nice too.



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