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(5) Bat Wall
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Superstition S 

Superstition 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: FFA: July 11, 1981 by Jeff Thomas & Mark Cartier
Page Views: 1,290
Submitted By: another Chad on Mar 26, 2012

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P1 of Superstition

Description 

Superstition is a three pitch line that goes to the top of the Bat Wall. Only the first pitch is described here. Olsonís Portland Rock Climbs has information on the complete line if so desired.

P1 of Superstition is a popular and fun climb near the center of the Bat Wall (just left of Lost Boys). Ascend a shallow corner passing several minor cruxes. Near the top of the pitch, a leftward traverse on a slab needs to be negotiated (crux). Once past the slab and into the flaring chimney a nut or .3 C4 can be placed. Gain the narrow ledge and clip a fixed piton on the crawl to the anchor.

Protection 

Quickdraws, runners and a medium sized nut or #2 C3


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By Chris Kuttruff
Jun 2, 2012

Warning! Moderate spoilers may follow...

On P1, A runner on the bolt before the crux bolt (the crux bolt being the one protecting the short traverse under the roof) will definitely help reduce rope drag. The same goes for the cam placement after the crux; I believe there is also a spot for a .5 c4 a bit higher than where the .3 (or #2 c3) would go.

I submit that this is the best 5.10 at Broughton. Feel free to disagree and a lively discussion thread shall ensue :)
By another Chad
Sep 28, 2012

I agree, using a runner on the fifth bolt is a nice way to keep the rope drag manageable. Gorilla Love Affair has my vote as the best 5.10 at Broughton Bluff, though p1 of Superstition is a close second.


Chad
By Adam Therneau
May 2, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Excellent route! The traverse move isn't too bad if you get the right sequence and trust the feet. While definitely four stars, I think Lost Boys gets my vote for best Broughton 10. If you buy that it's a 10, that is...