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Superstition 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c/d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Doug Reed, Russ Clune, 1989
Page Views: 619
Submitted By: Jeremy Steck on Jun 13, 2010

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Description 

The opening moves are tough. Start under and left of first bolt and traverse in right using a crimp match and thin feet or start under and right of the first bolt and make larger moves to the shallow left facing corner system. Climb to the top of the shallow corner and clip the 2nd bolt, from here head out right then traverse back left to clip the 3rd bolt and continue on easier ground up and left to reach the large ledge, then traverse about 20 feet to the right to find the anchors to conclude pitch 1. Pitch 2 begins from the shuts and goes to the top. To do this route as 1 pitch, head up and right at the 2nd bolt and eventually meet up with pitch 2, this long single pitch route is called Skylore Engine, 5.13a.

Location 

This is the next bolted line to the right of Graffiti.

Protection 

11 bolts, shuts. Anchors at end of pitch 1 at right side of the large ledge.


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By Chris Whisenhunt
Administrator
From: Fayetteville, WV
Feb 4, 2014

Everyone goes left after the boulder problem and continues up another 3 or 4 bolts to the anchors and then lowers from there. Also the bolt at the top of the boulder problem is now a permy. Before the ledge where you traverse over to clip the anchors on the first pitch is some pretty fun climbing involving some technical undercling moves and big moves on big holds.