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Supernova 
Venom 

Supernova 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 115'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Terri Condon, Steve Elia, Tony Sartin (Feb.14, 2011)
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 432
Submitted By: terri condon on Feb 28, 2011
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Description 

Supernova climbs up a vertical, technical face with a crux near its fourth bolt on small crimpers. After the fifth bolt an overhang is encountered. Clip a sixth bolt above the roof, surmount it, and climb a crack up and left joining Focus for its final 2 bolts. Once you reach the main ledge, instead of clipping the anchor bolts for Focus to your left, continue straight up on big holds and very steep rock past 4 bolts to a small ledge. More technical face climbing past 3 bolts leads to a deceptive final sequence to reach the anchors.


Location 

Located in the Central Gorge at the Solarium between Focus and Black Hole. You can lower off this route with a 70m rope, or with a 60m rope you can LPL to the Focus anchor.


Protection 

15 bolts to a 2-bolt mussy hook anchor



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By Tom Helvie
From: Bishop, CA
Mar 2, 2011

Hey Terri, just letting you know there's already a route in the gorge named White Dwarf. It's a trad route at the Atilla the Hun Wall.

By terri condon
Mar 7, 2011

Thanks tom. I fixed it.

By Jeff Scheuerell
Feb 25, 2014
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII E4 6a

I loved this route! Other than the rock quality through the overhanging section and, in my mind, questionable bolt protecting the last moves before turning the roof this is one of the best routes I have done in the Gorge. Awesome!

The first half to the ledge is 4 stars on its own and in my opinion a much better line than Focus.


But if this route is 11b Marty Party and Venom are 11a.