Type: Trad, 65 ft (20 m)
FA: Jer Collins, Mike Obryan, Erik Pohlman
Page Views: 5,094 total · 25/month
Shared By: Jeremy Collins on May 5, 2007 · Updates
Admins: Tyler KC, JD Borgeson

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

I stared at this face for ten years, stopping in amazement one of my first trips down.

"Wow!" I thought, "will it ever go?"

The more I climbed at Sams Throne, the more I learned what gear would, and wouldn't work, and what it took to do routes ground up in an area where cracks dead ended disappointingly, and finicky seams sometimes gave protection, but oftentimes, not.

The obvious blank green face is practically hold-less, but my eyes traced the most possible looking line; up the previously climbed arete, and into the seams cracking the face. Jim Karpowitz climbed the arete in the 80's with no fixed gear, and no pre-inspection. This is the spirit in which 90% of the routes at Sams had been sent and I found the approach intoxicating. 

I knew it was a matter of time before someone got to the green face. It was in my mind the most obvious remaining gem. Luckily, it was left untouched. I headed up with a  rack and figured out the gear placements; worked the crux, and came back two weeks later for the send.

Location Suggest change

Begin on The Natural, protecting the left side of the arete as best you can. After thirty feet, traverse left on the handrail that leads fifteen feet to a vertical seam. Hopefully you have long slings on everything you placed and will not have any drag(consider using double ropes). The crux is the next 15 feet , working the tips crack, with the occasional face hold.
Once you hit the ceiling, you can get a good rest. Head out the ceiling left, nailing a jug, and pull through to the top.

Protection Suggest change

Single set of cams 00-#2, with numerous in thin fingers(.3) + Small-medium nuts. Long slings for every piece. Anchor over the lip.

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