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Start on a juggy arete and traverse it to the right. After you keep going right you will come to a small seam. Figure out how to get through the seam (crux) by heelhooking the arete, bumping, crossing, and maybe controlling a swing depending on your beta. There are many ways to do this section. After you get through the seam there are jugs up and right and then jugs up and left after that. Finish with an easy topout. This is a really awesome problem that is worth going to do if you are close by with nothing else to do.
It is on the Superman Boulder. If you park directly above the parking lot wall it is the large boulder with a large slab on the side facing the parking lot. Walk to the front of the boulder so you are facing the the parking lot. Superman climbs the left arete.
Have as many pads as possible. The landing is really treacherous with a whole bunch of rocks everywhere. The landing is really really bad. Would not reccommend to do solo.
By Adam Winters
From: the Shire
Aug 21, 2011
I don't think an 8 ft. boulder problem can be four stars with such a horrible landing. This thing is ok.