Superior Arete
5.12c YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks IX- UIAA 27 ZA E6 6b British R
Avg: 3.9 from 20 votes
Type: | Trad, TR, 95 ft (29 m) |
FA: | FA: Dave Groth FFA: Rob Pilaczynski, August 28, 2011. |
Page Views: | 8,007 total · 37/month |
Shared By: | JJ Schlick on Aug 13, 2006 · Updates |
Admins: | K Ice, Kris Gorny |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Temporary Peregrine Falcon access restrictions
Details
For most current closures please see the park's Visitor Alert message here: dnr.state.mn.us/state_parks…
When in doubt, you can inquire about the closures at the State Park Visitor Center (5702 Highway 61, Silver Bay), via email (tettegouche.statepark@state.mn.us), or by phone (218-353-8800).
When in doubt, you can inquire about the closures at the State Park Visitor Center (5702 Highway 61, Silver Bay), via email (tettegouche.statepark@state.mn.us), or by phone (218-353-8800).
Description
Stuck in the spotlight, it is hard to miss the line. Start up Superior Crack for 15 feet or so until you can traverse right onto the arete via edges. The route weaves its way up the arete switching sides now and then, with the crux at a small roof 1/3 or so the way up. Excellent stone and movement.
Protection
Quote from Rob Pilaczynski (FFA):
"The two cruxes have bomber gear right below them. I placed a total of five pieces, and I think you would be hard pressed to find any more than that. The first piece is right when you step right out of Superior crack, a .75 BD in a vertical crack. Right below the first roof I placed a bomber yellow alien in the constricting crack. After pulling the roof, you move left then back right to the arete and can fit a really good .5 BD in a small vertical seam. Once on the giant rest ledge, look around the corner to place a blue alien in a horizontal crack, then run it out to the last roof and place a horizontal green C3 before committing to the final headwall."
"The two cruxes have bomber gear right below them. I placed a total of five pieces, and I think you would be hard pressed to find any more than that. The first piece is right when you step right out of Superior crack, a .75 BD in a vertical crack. Right below the first roof I placed a bomber yellow alien in the constricting crack. After pulling the roof, you move left then back right to the arete and can fit a really good .5 BD in a small vertical seam. Once on the giant rest ledge, look around the corner to place a blue alien in a horizontal crack, then run it out to the last roof and place a horizontal green C3 before committing to the final headwall."
8 Comments