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East Ridge
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Superguide 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: George Hurlet, Bill DeMallie, 1989
Page Views: 409
Submitted By: Ivan Rezucha on Nov 23, 2002
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BETA PHOTO: "Superguide" route/East Ridge.

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  • Description 

    Approach: Hike up the gully between the East Ridge and Nebel Horn ridge past the huge overhangs of Fiddlehead and the long gray Stealth Slab. This brings you to the Dihedrals area. Counting from the right, the first dihedral is easy. Superguide is the right wall of the second dihedral. The start is easy climbing to a ledge with a "diving board" block below a 45 degree overhang.

    The climbing: The first crux comes right away at the overhang. You can use a #4 Camalot for a directional to make sure the wired nut at the lip doesn't lift out. Make sure to use a long runner on the #4 to clip (but short runner connecting the #4 to the wire). This overhang is one pull off of a finger or hand jam to some surprising holds. The overhang could be very hard if you can't reach the first jam. Climb about 10 more feet up the corner and then traverse right to the pin. Climb up the easy arete and make a harder move up to the bolt. You can get occasional gear along the way. At the bolt is the second crux. Make a move using the arete and reach left to a pocket and up to another pocket where you can get gear. There is a surprise waiting for you in this section. Don't worry it's a good surprise--an interesting rock feature.


    Protection 

    #4 Camalot optional for the overhang crux, light standard rack. Some long runners--save one for a thread up high. One fixed pin and one bolt. Two bolt anchor.



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