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Superfresh Dihedral T 

Superfresh Dihedral 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 55'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: uncertain
Season: Gets all day shade.
Page Views: 127
Submitted By: Tony B on Aug 12, 2012

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  • Description 

    This is mostly good climbing with some of it being on poor rock. This climb can be made safe, but it requires good judgment in both using holds and placing protection. There are loose flakes in and around the crack. In summary, this is not a good climb to push for if close to one's grade or for a new trad leader.

    It is a good climb solidly into the 5.10 grade. Consider wearing sleeves and tape gloves to protect yourself against sharp edges.

    Location 

    The route lies practically on the Fern Canyon trail, and it is the right-facing crack/flake/corner that faces South on the Superfresh block. Head up and into it placing your full set of cams starting at just under 2" and working up to 4-5", with a small cam optional up top (1-1.5").

    Above the corner system, belay on 2 small trees. To retreat, scramble West on the ledge with the 2 small trees, then go North up a slab to a large tree, then down the Northwest-most prow of the block to the base (5.4).

    Protection 

    A single set of cams from 1" to #4 Camalot. A very large cam can be used up top, but there are other alternatives for protection there, including a 1" can out left of the main crack. A new #4 Camalot is the crux pro. An old one is a little large, and a #3 is in a questionable area of rock. So take the new #4.


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