Superfly 5.10a
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Good page? (1 like)   |
| Type: | Sport, 65 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10a [details] |
| FA: | Louie Anderson (1998) |
| Submitted By: | Matthew Fienup on Sep 30, 2008 |
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Climber on "Wonderwoman." "Superfly climbs the bla...
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Emergency Closure to Protect Sensitive Plant Species MORE INFO >>>
Grotto and Lookout closed MORE INFO >>>
Climbs upstream from "Miss Pacman" and "Gameboy" on river right and upstream of "Xanadu" on river left are closed until further notice as required to protect a sensitive, federally listed plant species. For more information, see: www.nps.gov/samo/upload/PublicNoticeCircleXRanch2010.PDF
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description Approach the actual route by first scrambling up to the top of a block in front of the wall. Follow the fun, steep, juggy face to the top.
Location Directly across the Grotto from Pacman/Gameboy. Approach the route by actually scrambling up the Grotto for about 20 feet from these routes before crossing over. Superfly is the left-hand of 2 routes on this formation.
Protection 5 bolts to 2 open shuts (stick clip?)
By Benjamin Chapman
From: CA
Jan 11, 2010
| "Superfly" was the left-hand of 2 routes on this face, but as of August 2008 there are 3 routes on this face. The left most route is "Wonderwoman" (5.10c) and "Superfly" (5.10A) is the middle of three routes on this impressive featured orange face in the Grotto. "Air Ranger" (5.10C) is on the arete on the right side of the face. |
By Grace C
From: Claremont, CA
Apr 15, 2010
| Anderson's guide recommends stick clipping the first bolt, and after climbing this, I definitely agree with him. However, if you're like me and find yourself sans a clip stick, you can at least gain some metal security by scrambling up the bolder, leaning way out, and clipping the first bolt of the route to the right before you go for the first actual bolt on Superfly. I then lowered off and unclipped that first bolt to save myself the rope drag, so it was quite a production for probably not a lot of real safety, but I'd recommend it if you need a bit of mental boost to go for those first committing moves. |
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