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 ADVANCED
The Grotto
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
... S 
Air Ranger S 
Crash Test Dummy S 
Dipstick S 
Game Boy S 
Garden of Expectations S 
Intensity S 
Junior S 
Little Giant S 
Lowrider S 
Mirror of Erised S 
Miss Pacman S 
Mystic River S 
Nimrod S 
Puffing Hunchback S 
Rats & Bats S 
Slammer S 
Stairway to Heaven S 
Stinger S 
Stubby S 
Superfly S 
Wonder Woman S 
Xanadu S 
Unsorted Routes:

Superfly 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Louie Anderson (1998)
Page Views: 1,515
Submitted By: Matthew Fienup on Sep 30, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (22)
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Climber on "Wonderwoman." "Superfly climbs the bla...
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  • Description 

    Approach the actual route by first scrambling up to the top of a block in front of the wall. Follow the fun, steep, juggy face to the top.


    Location 

    Directly across the Grotto from Pacman/Gameboy. Approach the route by actually scrambling up the Grotto for about 20 feet from these routes before crossing over. Superfly is the left-hand of 2 routes on this formation.


    Protection 

    5 bolts to 2 open shuts (stick clip?)



    Comments on Superfly Add Comment
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    By Benjamin Chapman
    From: Small Town, USA
    Jan 11, 2010

    "Superfly" was the left-hand of 2 routes on this face, but as of August 2008 there are 3 routes on this face. The left most route is "Wonderwoman" (5.10c) and "Superfly" (5.10A) is the middle of three routes on this impressive featured orange face in the Grotto. "Air Ranger" (5.10C) is on the arete on the right side of the face.

    By Grace C
    From: Claremont, CA
    Apr 15, 2010

    Anderson's guide recommends stick clipping the first bolt, and after climbing this, I definitely agree with him. However, if you're like me and find yourself sans a clip stick, you can at least gain some metal security by scrambling up the bolder, leaning way out, and clipping the first bolt of the route to the right before you go for the first actual bolt on Superfly. I then lowered off and unclipped that first bolt to save myself the rope drag, so it was quite a production for probably not a lot of real safety, but I'd recommend it if you need a bit of mental boost to go for those first committing moves.