Super Suka 5.12a
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 85 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12a [details] |
| FA: | Richard Aschert & Dave Dangle, 1991 |
| Submitted By: | Anonymous Coward on Nov 20, 2005 |
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BETA PHOTO: Cactus Cliff - Left (2).
Errata: Route 31 is Tits...
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Description About 25 feet to the left of Tits Up and Hot Beach, there is a menacing OW/chimney in a dihedral. The second route to the right of the dihedral is Super Suka.
Super Suka looks like a slab, but is a bit steeper than it appears from the ground. The crux section actually is pretty slabby, and consists of a very thin crux at about the midway point. A monster no-hands rest comes before the finish. Definitely take advantage of the rest, since the finish is steep, pumpy, and hard to read.
A good route, but certainly not as classic as its neighboring routes.
Protection 10 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.
Ben making a long reach low on Super Sucka.
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This route does not super suck.
Climber: Ben I.
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By jhump
Jun 13, 2009
rating: 5.12a
| Crazy story for me to share from last weekend...My partner Brandi started up the route after I tried it. I had started in the corner to the left of the first bolt. It was a little sketchy, so I suggested that she try the easy looking ramp to the right. She got her feet up about 10 feet to the ledge that you clip from. As she fully stood up, she pulled on a small but solid looking crimp and it exploded! She clawed at the wall searching for purchase for what seemed like an eternity. I screamed NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO, thinking I was about to witness a broken ankle. She launched backwards off the wall falling back first...and....I caught her. She was all set for some serious pain and I plucked her right out of the sky. We looked at each other and laughed. She had some nasty flappers, but other than that, just fine. She's tough. She pried off another loose, off-route hold higher on the route. Watch out for the choss on this one. Nevermind, she got it all. |
By Steven Lucarelli
From: Moab, UT
Apr 5, 2010
rating: 5.12a
| Thank her for cleaning up the loose stuff. Its a pretty clean route now. |
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