"Super stubby" ice screws

Now taking orders for the next run of super stubbies. Photo shows the range of possibilities: 10 cm screw on left for reference; stubbies can be 6 to 8 cm, you get to specify. I have donor screws here, or I can cut down your BD 10 or 13 cm screw (we can talk about other brands). Allow two weeks for production and delivery.

I know folks think of these as useless, but I carry an 8 cm and basically place it where I'd normally reach for a 10 e.g. thin ice at the top of a route, just before things turn to rock and/or mud. Catskill climbers probably know what I'm referring to. Placing the 8 usually just means I'm not bottoming out a 10.

L to R: 10 cm screw, 8 cm, 6 cm

Interesting.

For those sketchy Catskills top-outs, wouldn't something like a BD Spectre Ice Piton be a better choice?

Not saying useless but...in all seriousness, how thin does ice need to be before it's just not enough to safely protect?

A pound-in like the Spectre would - according to conventional wisdom - be the best option for SOLIDLY frozen dirt, something we're not seeing much of this odd, a-thaw-every-week (ATEW) winter. I don't have any of those, so I'm left with getting a short screw at the last SOLID ice. That's the key of course, for any screw, but especially anything in the 8-10 cm range; it's got to be good ice. Not crumbly, grainy crap like we're seeing during this odd, ATEW winter.

Here's an 8 placed in bullet hard, glassy ice last year. I'd call it trustworthy, but then, without falling on it, who's to say how good any screw really is.

stubby in bullet ice

I have two of Gunkiemike's "Super Stubby" screws. A 6cm and a 7cm. The work was completed quickly and excellently. The tooth profile is pretty much dead on. They start faster than a typical BD express and about as fast as the newest Petzl Speeds.

In terms of strength/performance, my only data point is as follows: I placed the 6cm screw in clear, dense, blue ice. I then clipped a dyneema sling into the screw and bounce tested the HELL out of it. For a solid 2 minutes. At about 200lbs fully kitted out.

I was not able to cause any fracturing to the ice, pull the screw out, or generate any visible failures or changes to the ice. Take that for what you will.

Thanks for the info, Jon H. These definitely look interesting. As a NY-PA-NJ ice climber, I know all about the finicky winter ice. I bought a whole bunch of pitons this year to supplement my winter rack. I'm sure these stubbier stubbies would make a great addition...just scared as shit to actually use one.

Hi GunkieMike,

I am a bit interested. I have BD 10 and 13 cm screws, but they are in good shape, so I would be interest in your "donor screws" being cut down to 8 and 6 cm. How do I get a hold of you and/or your business? Could you post some contact information and cost information? I am out west and things might not be as bad as you describe on the east coast but there are times, typically at a top out, when a shorter screw would be just the ticket. I look forward to possibly doing business with you.

Cheers,

Bob Loomis, Spokane, WA.

For anyone thinking for taking Mike up on his offer, I'm thinking of having him trim down a Petzl laser speed, you're not whipping on that screw but you could be safely lowered off of a stubbie. It definitely beats trying to down climb thin ice! Think bout it..

I remember seeing some screws Joe Szot was cutting down and thinking that would be perfect for North Carolina. What's the cost? Contact info?

PM'ed back to S-Bob and webdog.

Yeah, I'm interested.

I have some, like mentionned above great if the ice is good! I don`t use em often but when I do I`m happy to have em on me ,

Hi GunkieMike,

I see from the forum content that you said you sent me a personal message. I must not be very bright because darned if I cannot find anywhere on this site where personal messages reside. I clicked around in my account, etc., all to no avail. So if you just want to contact me directly my email address is > loomis@rescue.com <. The price you posted is fine by me and seems fair. But since I do not have any screws at the moment that I want to sacrifice, and all you say you have are screws where the organ grinder handles do not flip down, I prefer to wait. When you do get some screws with flip-down handles then I would like to buy one or two in the 8 cm and/or 6 cm range. A few in that size would be nice for those super thin ice conditions.

Cheers,

Bob Loomis, Spokane, WA.

Did I miss the prices?

These are cool Mike.

Russ, I negotiate prices depending on who supplies the donor screw and what kind it is. If you have a suitable donor, then it's only $15 (return shipping additional). If I supply, it's $35-50 depending on the screw type (no knob, fixed knob, black hanger, silver hanger etc)

Bill Kirby wrote:For anyone thinking for taking Mike up on his offer, I'm thinking of having him trim down a Petzl laser speed, you're not whipping on that screw but you could be safely lowered off of a stubbie.

Take a good look to see how far the last thread is from the handle.
I think the BD 10cms are probably the ones with the most threads left when you start cutting them down.
I've got a 7cm that Chuck made and the Super Stubbies are a definite plus if you head up North Face of Gothics.

Luc wrote: Take a good look to see how far the last thread is from the handle. I think the BD 10cms are probably the ones with the most threads left when you start cutting them down. I've got a 7cm that Chuck made and the Super Stubbies are a definite plus if you head up North Face of Gothics.

I talked to Mike and he said the Petzl will work. That reminds me to PayPal him some loot!

Have you seen NF Gothics? FAT right now..

Mike - I sent you an email. Reply back here if for some reason you don't get it, otherwise I'll look for an email from you. Thanks.