Start off the ground at the obvious crack, place some pro and scramble up to the ledge then continue up the sloping holds and smears to the crux undercling move that is easier if taller, the pro after the half-way point is sparse, but you won't fall unless a bear tackles you.
By MJMobes From: The land of steady habits Jul 3, 2008
can be done 3 different ways by either breaking right or left at the roof or just going strait over it. safe lead for sure.
By John Biehn From: Madison, CT Jun 15, 2011 rating: 5.54b13IV+11MS 4a
Depending on which variation you do the grade can be much harder for shorter climbers. Great lead with good gear when you need it.... Black snakes like to hang in the large horizontal cracks near the top.
Fun easy slab route with a much harder crux section (the bulge) in the middle of an otherwise very easy route. Good gear all the way up. The bulge is intimidating for the grade. A freind of mine who just started leading, led clark bar crack with no problem earlier in the day. He got shut down at the crux of this route the same day on the lead.
Can be top roped with a gear anchor, but good luck finding trees. I used small cams with a sliding X, a good BD .75 off a little lower to climbers right and a big nut further back up top and left. Also a decent BD #1 two-three feet below anchor master point as a back up, good to be safe. The variation that goes left of the bulge is super fun. Use gear to eliminate a big swing when on TR.