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Redgarden - Below Lower Ramp
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Super Slab Direct Start 
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Super Slab Direct Start 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 160'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Art Higby & Larry Marquardt, 1973. (Pat Ament, Larry Dalke?)
Fixed Hardware: 1 Lead Pin [details]
Page Views: 753
Submitted By: Steven Lucarelli on Nov 20, 2007
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From the early 70s, note EBs, hexes, stoppers and ...
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  • Description 

    This often over looked route has a pretty good first pitch but the second pitch is a little loose and dirty.

    P1: Make a committing move right off the ground and clip a good pin. The crux is trying to get past this pin and it is very height dependent. If your about 6' tall, 11c is probably accurate, taller and it is easier, shorter and it's probably 5.12. Continue up an easier, left-facing dihedral to a broken ledge and belay.

    P2: Climb straight up from the ledge following a broken up crack system that angles slightly left. This pitch is a little runout, but the climbing isn't very difficult, maybe 10a. Belay on the ledge at the start of Super Slab.


    Location 

    This route starts right off the trail just left of Suparete. Look for a steep face/crack with a Lost Arrow pin in it.


    Protection 

    Standard rack up to a #2 or #3 Camalot.



    Comments on Super Slab Direct Start Add Comment
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    By Larry Marquardt
    Aug 31, 2009

    Art Higby and I did the FFA in 1973

    By YDPL8S
    From: Santa Monica, Ca.
    Sep 1, 2009
    rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

    Cool Larry, I think this picture was taken around that same time, might have been '74, I'll have to check the date on my slide. Chuck Tolton and I think Mark Jansen were there that day, along with Gary. I'm not sure who the belayer is.