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The Golden Wall
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Super Skink 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b X

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Mike Rawdon
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,158
Submitted By: Taino on Dec 20, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: Super Skink

Description 

A high-angle slab, face climb from hell. This route wanders for 10-15 feet back and forth as you struggle to connect the crystals that form your only holds. If you're short (i.e., not 5'9"), you might not even be able to start this climb; at 5'6", I couldn't even get off the ground. Named Super Skink because, as the FA said, "It's totally sandbagged at 5.10; more like 5.10d or harder".


Location 

This route is on the face on the OTHER side of the Golden Dream route; go through the squeeze hole to the right. The route starts on top of some stacked blocks/ledges, about 6-8 feet off the ground; go up for about 8 feet, then traverse right under the small roof for about 10-15 feet; go up about 5 feet, then traverse left for about 10-15 feet; go up to top.


Protection 

There is absolutely no gear whatsoever. Use the bolts for the Golden Dream to provide an anchor.



Photos of Super Skink Slideshow Add Photo
Making the reach after traversing right around the overhang.
Making the reach after traversing right around the...
Moving left above the overhang.
Moving left above the overhang.
Comments on Super Skink Add Comment
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By Gunkiemike
Oct 23, 2011

OK, so it's more like 10b, assuming you can reach the horizontal at the right end of the traverse.