||Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 75', Grade III
|Original: || YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b A3 PG13 [details]|
|FA: ||Sam Lightner Jr., February 29, 2008|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||Spring, summer, or Fall|
|Page Views: ||1,212|
|Submitted By: ||Sam Lightner, Jr. on Mar 1, 2008|
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|RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>|
Super Seam follows the obvious seam strait up the wall from the Super Chimney. It ends at an anchor 75 feet above the pillar where the seam deteriorates.
Lean across from the pillar and clip the bolt, then pull onto the main wall. Do a few moves on Peckers to another bolt (helping to alleviate the factor two-ness). Continue on with peckers and the odd Lost Arrow type pin, with an occasional cam. Another stud helps the transition to the second crack. A few more pecker placements and you are re at the anchors.
On the wall above the Super Chimney.
Many peckers or knife blade type pins and a selection of Lost arrow types. 1 set of Friends, some tie-offs, and a couple draws.
Looking down he Super Seam at the Super Chimney. F...
By Sam Lightner, Jr.
From: Lander, WY
Mar 1, 2008
I intended to take this line to the summit of the butte/knob. However, about 75 feet up, where it looked like the crack opened, it actually closed down and the seam filled with sand. It could be done, but for me it would require a lot of bolts. Maybe the super-aid guys, like Chris Kalous, could pull it off.
As per the rating, I really don't know how to rate aid. The pins might catch you and they might not... its hard to know unless you fall on them. However, I can say that hanging on peckers on a Wingate seam gets your blood flowing.
By chris Kalous
Mar 1, 2008
Thanks Sam. I am the super aid guy, or SAG for short. i would prefer that everyone refer to me as that from now on, as in "Hey, SAG, looking good relaxing in those aiders." or "Did you see the SAG hanging it out on that ridiculous C2+ C3 placement?" etc.
By John W. Knoernschild
Jul 17, 2008
Look up on the wall, its a spider, its a bat, NO IT'S SAG!!!