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Super Roof Wall
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Super Roof 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Dave Ohlsen, Jon Lonne and Martin McBirney, April 1975
Page Views: 5,221
Submitted By: C Miller on Jul 14, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (68)
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One of Joshua Tree's most improbable moderate rout...

Description 

Approach Steve Canyon from either Hidden Valley Campground or the Quail Springs Road via climber's trail's leading to the mouth of the canyon.

Looking north into the back of Steve Canyon one will see a very prominent roof on the left near some pine trees - this is Super Roof. Continue up the canyon by means of a trail and scrambling to reach the base.

Super Roof is the obvious roof crack 15' left of a prominent offwidth roof crack (Comfortably Numb, 5.11). Scramble onto a ledge to begin, and climb the imposing roof which is easier than it looks. Take care not to get your rope stuck, it happens more often than you might think. Descend to climber's right.

Although short this climb is lots of fun, has great exposure and good rock. The approach is minimal too, but enough to keep the masses away. This is a nice spot to get away and do some quality lines.


Protection 

Gear to 3.5"



Photos of Super Roof Slideshow Add Photo
Kathy Boussina climbs an overhanging crack and face after exiting the namesake on "Super Roof."
Kathy Boussina climbs an overhanging crack and fac...
Moving through the crux on Super Roof. 5.9
Moving through the crux on Super Roof. 5.9
Fred Batliner hanging it out. Photo by Chris Owen
Fred Batliner hanging it out. Photo by Chris Owen
About to pull the lip
About to pull the lip
Around the corner on Super Roof.
Around the corner on Super Roof.
Super Roof
Super Roof
Jhon Dubrawski contemplates the crux of 'Super Roof' (5.9) in Steve Canyon. Photo by Tony Bubb, 12/2003.
Jhon Dubrawski contemplates the crux of 'Super Roo...
Jophn Dubrawski sets some gear before finishing on 'Super Roof' (5.9) in Steve Canyon. Photo by Tony Bubb, 2003.
Jophn Dubrawski sets some gear before finishing on...
Topo for Super Roof and Let's Get Horizontal
Topo for Super Roof and Let's Get Horizontal
Super Roof.
Super Roof.
Comments on Super Roof Add Comment
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By Anonymous Coward
Jul 16, 2002

Yes, I did what I guess many have done. After pulling the roof I irretrieveably fixed the rope in a cam below the lip. Repeated pleas for slack never seem to unstick a rope jammed into #3 Camalot teeth. Unwilling to reverse the roof and uncertain about the state of my repositioned cam, I untied and soloed to the top, walked off and tapped my buddy on the shoulder (reclining out of view from above, where he still had me on 'belay').

By tom donnelly
Aug 15, 2002

To keep the rope out of the crack, I seem to recall you could stick a balled up old tshirt in the crack.

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jan 6, 2003
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Fun route with nice sustained movement.

By Dynomight510
Aug 20, 2003
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I found the key to reducing rope drag on this route is to sling my gear and keep the rope slacked out a bit more. Good fun route with solid protection. I agree, it's short.

By outdooreric
From: Lyons, CO
Mar 25, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Fun, but a bit short for more than two stars. By using runners below and a 3-inch piece just above the roof, I had no problem with the rope getting stuck. The 3.5 camalot mentioned above is gone.