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Vampire, The 

Super Pooper 

YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 500'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ British: E2 5b [details]
FA: FA - Chuck Wilts, Don Wilson, John and Ruth Mendenhall 1952. FFA Bob Kamps and Mark Powell 1967
Page Views: 9,732
Submitted By: Dpurf on Feb 21, 2006
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Catherine Conner leading the stellar second pitch ...

Description 

A distinct line the forms the left margin of the West face Bulge. From the FBT ledge, climbing up and to the right up easy ledges to establish a belay (4th class). Or Take the Vampire and move up and left to establish a belay (5.7). The first pitch is long and the Crux. Pull a 2 little bulge/roof (10b) to a good ledge. the 2nd is a thin finger crack on the left wall to a small stance (5.8). The 3rd a long pitch lieback the corner and around a small overhang, then move up and right to turn the summit overhanges (pitch 4)


Protection 

thin to 3 inches



Photos of Super Pooper Slideshow Add Photo
Looking at Adam and Mike on The Vampire. Photo taken from Super Pooper.
Looking at Adam and Mike on The Vampire. Photo tak...
Thought it would be fun to add this photo from back in the 'Iron Age' when it was still rated 5.9 ~ Keith on 'Super Pooper" 1968.
Thought it would be fun to add this photo from bac...
Start Super Pooper here for a more direct way into the crux. Detailed in the topo pic with the redline.
BETA PHOTO: Start Super Pooper here for a more direct way into...
Fred Batliner looking suitably relieved after following P1. (c) Chris Owen
Fred Batliner looking suitably relieved after foll...
Super Pooper.
Super Pooper.
Jake  getting into the cruxy moves at the second buldge
Jake getting into the cruxy moves at the second b...
The Super Pooper as seen from the approach trail.  The upper belay is about 80 rope meters from the ledge where The Trough starts. It's best to brake the traverse into two pitches because of rope drag. <br /> <br />Belaying pitch 1 from the upper ledge is beneficial, there is less rope drag and the belayer has a better view of the climber. <br /> <br />On pitch 2, avoid the slab above the roof. Go left and then cut back right. Rope drag can get unpleasant here.
BETA PHOTO: The Super Pooper as seen from the approach trail. ...
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 8, 2013
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Sep 4, 2006
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

Awesome route that follows a great line. The crux pitch, in my opinion, is definitely stout although the gear is good. I also found the ending 5.7 pitch rather exciting - at least the way I climbed it.

We started at the base of The Trough, and then angled left towards a tree and a belay. The next pitch (From Bad Traverse) continued angling up and left and eventually gained a good ledge to the right of the obvious manzanita covered ledge. CONTINUE UP TO THE NEXT LEDGE PAST THIS FIRST LEDGE (up a 5.7-5.8 crack). I belayed on the first ledge and regretted it on the crux pitch - too much rope drag!

P1 (5.10b) - The crux pitch is long and goes at 5.10b (in my opinion). Work up the left trending crack tackling bulges, thin cracks, and wide sections as they present themselves. Eventually step left into another crack and head upwards to a belay stance near a sloping ledge and below twin cracks on the left wall.

P2 (5.8) - Climb the fun, twin cracks for about 70 feet to a nice stance.

p3 (5.7) - Despite the grade I found this a challenging pitch! I'm still not 100% sure I was on route, but the rock was clean so I assume I was. If anyone knows let me know! Head up to and layback the wide, left facing corner to a roof. Pass the roof on the left and continue up a small crack. Place some gear and make an awkward, steep move up and left to gain another crack. The pro is tricky in the next section. Move up and right (I managed to get a good steel nut somewhere around here in a pin scar) and along the undercling until you get to an obvious break. Get some pro here. Climb up the jugs to the left and onto a good ledge. Now the sting in the tail! I had tremendous rope drag here, and the next 15 feet of "5.7" slab climbing was relatively terrifying with the rope drag and 40 foot leg breaking fall potential.... but it worked out :) Was I on route? The rope drag was horrible despite good use of long slings, and the slab is featureless... so use caution.

Gear - Double camalots #0.5-#3. A #4 camalot could be useful. Good helping of nuts including small wires and/or steel nuts. One set of TCUs. Bring LOTS of long slings!

By Aaron S
Dec 19, 2006

Heh, it's been a while since I climbed this one but I had almost the exact same experience as Andy on the last pitch. Bad rope drag, looking up at a featureless slab facing a bad fall, and wondering if I was on route. I ended up deciding to back track a bit and head around to the left, which ended up being casual.

First couple pitches are stellar.

By mschlocker
From: San Diego, CA
May 5, 2008
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

Just did this yesterday and wished I had done more research (I did basically none). Here are my notes.

We skimped on the large gear (#3 and #4 C4) which was a mistake. This climb requires the gamut of sizes. Black Alien to #4. Throw in some micro nuts for good measure.

Andy has it right for the start "CONTINUE UP TO THE NEXT LEDGE PAST THIS FIRST LEDGE (up a 5.7-5.8 crack)." This ledge is above and right of the large tree. The crack he mentions is splitter.

There was an unexpected and delicate traverse left on the crux pitch. We did this around where the crack widens to #4 C4. Just know that at some point you will want to switch to the left crack.

For the last pitch, after you pass the roof you will wonder where to go. The way is left for a few more moves. I started out right past a horn which was definitely not safe. After heading left you will either head up and right to rope-drag hell like Andy and I, or may be lucky enough to find a way that is "casual" like Aaron. Maybe Aaron was just smart and slung his gear long.

On P1 I got a great view of a woman beginning the traverse / flake pitch of The Vampire. Blank vertical slab with her climbing right up it - great photo if you have some buddies willing to coordinate.

By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Jun 9, 2008
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

Climbed it again on 6/9/08. More notes....

  • Shady until 1pm in early Summer
  • I brought nuts, micro nuts, double cams from TCUs to #3 camalot. I brought a #4 this time. Next time, I'll replace the #4 with a #3.5
  • Belaying on the higher ledge as mentioned above is much better for the first pitch. Way less rope drag and breaks up the longer crux pitch. We got here in two long pitches from the base of "The Trough". Expect some route finding challenges if you are not familiar with the terrain.
  • Crux pitch is still stout... 10b IMO.
  • Last pitch. There is only one way to go, I investigated all other options and there aren't any. Up the lieback, around the roof, up the crack, jog left, then up and right. Keep going right and then step up on to the ledge. I extended everything as best I could and the rope drag still SUCKED. Rather than fight the drag on the 5.7 slab, I just pulled up 20 feet of slack, held it my hand, and padded up the slab. Way better than fighting the drag, and it is a NO FALL zone anyways... so what does it matter if I have 20' of rope in my hand :)

By Isaac T.
From: Rockville, MD
Aug 14, 2008
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ E2 5b

At the top of the 5.8 splitter crack pitch (#3) you can finish up the climb on "The Price Of Fear" 5.10c. Go right from the belay and follow the natural features to the arete (lots of exposure) you can get in some small nuts and cams for protection as you make your way to the arete. After wards you have 3 bolts to the top, I believe this route was bolted on lead so after the 2nd bolt on the arete you are looking at wild runouts on 10c slab with 500-600 hundred feet of air beneath you. Very spicy.

By Mar' Himmerich
From: Santa Fe, NM
Aug 26, 2008

The comments really make me glad I did this route because I've never really appreciated having done it. My partner and I were so psyched to get on it, it's strange. because we blazed it so fast, the only part I remember was placing a old #4 stopper at the little "V" crux where you step up and left with a lot of exposure.
We had a basic rack of hexes and stoppers, #9 hex being the biggest. I'd like to do it again, now. Thanks!

By Tyler Logan
From: Bishop, CA
Oct 11, 2009

The rope drag spoken of on the last pitch can be avoided. I linked most of pitch 2 and 3 together with a 60m rope (I belayed right before the runout-slab topout, at a sloping stance underneath the final overlap) and only stopped there because I ran out of rope, not because of rope drag. As you approach the short roof traverse on the third pitch (which immediately follows a section of liebacking up a 3" crack/corner), avoid the temptation to place gear during the last eight feet or so of the corner, and when you place a piece under the roof, put a long sling on it so it won't get sucked into the crack as it turns the corner. I placed a #2 (yellow) Metolius TCU here.

By darryl banks
Sep 14, 2010

great route. i found the best way to eliminate rope drag on 3rd pitch was to place bomber piece 15 feet or so below roof with runner then a 3.5 in the corner then a .3 directly below where you pull the roof (long sling) then take out the 3.5 (the 3.5 was only used momentaraly as a mental piece while i placed the .3) with this set up i had zero rope drag

dhayan on start of 2nd pitch
dhayan on start of 2nd pitch

By JaredVagy
From: Santa Monica, Ca
Jul 10, 2011

Climbed on July 9th 2011. Great route. Here is what I feel is a good way to climb it with a 70 meter rope:
Approach Pitch: Scramble up some rocks and climb a rope stretch double pitch with a 70 meter rope to the top of the 2nd pedestal mentioned in other reviews.
P1 and P2: These link very easily. P1 takes bigger gear, right after it gets wider, step around and transition to P2 which is a finger crack on the left hand wall. I placed a #3 high with a double runner and had no rope drag.
P3. Commit to the roof; it is all there. I believe you can place a #3 under the rood with a tripple runner and have no rope drag. Once you pull the roof, pass a pin scar, trend up slightly to the left into a mild short traverse where we saw a sunbleached sling that may or may not be there. Then trend up and right. As things mellow out you can equalize 2 C3's before you pull a 2 move 5.7 slab the summit. It was pretty mellow if the correct route is found. It seems to be very scary if you go directly upwards from the pin scar.

I had a 3.5 but did not place it.

Hope this helps.

By John Long
Jul 20, 2011

This route was rated 5.9 for like fifty years. We did it in high school and thought, Damn,. 5.9 is kinder stout.

JL

By Nick Barczak
Aug 6, 2011

Avoid the "From Bad Traverse" method of getting to Super Pooper.
Waste of time. Do the Stand Up Flake as an approach pitch. Its a good pitch of easy 5.9, with laybacking, jamming, and even a bit of easy chimney. Gets you reasonably close to the base of Super Pooper.

By Randy
Aug 8, 2011

Correction to FA Info:

Should be Bob Kamps (not Bob Kemps).

By Tommy G.
From: Irvine, California
Oct 10, 2011

Pitch 1: I thought the crux moves were fairly stout (10b) (although short lived). We were a bit unsure about whether or not it was the left or right crack. It is the one on the right and it gets a bit wide at the top (secure jams found deep).

Pitch 3: Not as mind boggling as some of the previous posts make it out to be. Head up to the obvious roof on your left and pull it to the left. Head up past the roof and it seems pretty blank, but up and about 4-6 feet to the left you can access the ramp/ledge directly above you via jugs. You can protect on the ramp (crack with pin scars). If you do place pro here, you should probably back clean a couple of the pieces as you continue up and right to reduce rope drag potential for the 2 spicy-ish .7 slab moves at the top.

I was cold on this route (October in the shade), so I will withhold severe judgment, but I did not think this was such an amazing line (3/3 stars). Still fun but not as much as I built it up to be in my head. Limited/weak exposure until the last pitch, and the 20' of finger crack on P2 was cool, but it's only 15'-20' up to easy broken climbing.

By x15x15
Jun 19, 2012

just finish this route with the Price of Fear pitch, you won't be disappointed. and if you were looking for a little more full value climbing on super pooper, this is the way to top out. i don't understand why folks still go the original way...

By Richard Shore
Aug 27, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

Currently sporting two fixed nuts through the crux section. Almost feels like a clip-up.

Sequential and burly crux moves. Took some thinking to piece it together, but fortunately there is a great no-hands rest right before the business. As recommended by others above, do The Price of Fear to cap off an already **** climb!

By Tradoholic
Sep 16, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Easy 10, yea a little run out on the 5.7 finish, I pulled the lip and got in a white tri-cam and a purple Master Cam but they weren't very good. Trust yer feet.

By generationfourth
From: Irvine, CA
Sep 8, 2013

There was an unexpected and delicate traverse left on the crux pitch. We did this around where the crack widens to #4 C4. Just know that at some point you will want to switch to the left crack.

Don't listen to this beta! I got to this point and stood there for 5 minutes staring at this traverse over. Eventually I just continued up the easy and enjoyable "semi-chimney" with hands in the back of it and then I got to a horizontal crack (that took a yellow tcu) and walked the crack casually over bringing the pitch to an end. I need to stop reading mp beta before climbs... they always screw up my intuition.