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Squeeze Play 
Start of Something Good 
Super High Tech Jetfighter 
Toxic Art 
Vias, aka Godzilla 
Unsorted Routes:

Super High Tech Jetfighter 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX British: E6 6b

   
Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 35'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Kris Johnson
Page Views: 1,219
Submitted By: Chris Hirsch on Aug 6, 2006
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super high tech jetfighter is the line with the dr...

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Description 

Crux is right off the ground as you have to lock-off a few crimps and then dyno to a good hold. Then climb through consistent 12- past a small redpoint crux, and it's over before you know it.


Location 

Bolt line just next Kelly's Arete, starts beneath a small roof in a pocket.


Protection 

Bolts



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By Jeff Kolehmainen
From: Eagan, MN
Apr 4, 2008

I believe that the FA on this one is Kris Johnson.

By Jonathan Williams
From: Palo Alto, CA
Aug 17, 2008
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ E6 6c

Very good, very hard, and very height dependent. It will be very difficult if you are shorter than 6 feet, unless you see something that I don't. JW

By randy baum
From: Minneapolis, MN
Nov 7, 2010

chalk one up for us little guys. i'm 5'8" and am able to do all the moves statically. it's all about the feet on this one.

fun climb over-all. same difficulty as its neighbor, last dance of the fat man. easier on the tips/fingers but offers less varied movement.

a good way to set up a TR or hang the draws is to climb jam and jelly and then traverse at the chains over to the chains of super high tech. take two long draws or 24' runners for the chains on super high tech; they are spaced pretty far apart.

man, this comment is LONG.

By AntVicino
Nov 8, 2010

Randy, we should head out there sometime so you can spray me down with the beta. I havent been on it, but it looks blank.. Maybe you could put some pink gym tape up on it for me?

By randy baum
From: Minneapolis, MN
Nov 8, 2010

no problem, dude. it's very far from blank. and no need for tape. i chalked the s@$! out of that thing. royal robbins would be proud.

By AntVicino
Nov 9, 2010

That chalk was super helpful, actually. I can definitely see the line now.

By Dylan Colon
From: Eugene, OR
Jan 10, 2012

I was unsure about whether the route moved left or right after the second bolt. I got shut down trying to move left and avoid all holds on Kelly's Arete. Is it allowed to use that flake that you use on Kelly's as an undercling before the crux and the other good holds around it (not the arete, obviously), or even the good pocket at the extreme top of the attached picture? Without them I feel like the crux comes after the second bolt for sure.

By randy baum
From: Minneapolis, MN
Jan 11, 2012

dylan,

the route does move left above the second bolt. those holds on kellye's arete that you mentioned -- including the pocket -- are on. in general, just follow the bolt line and you will be fine.

the red point crux is between the third and fourth bolts. that crux is not as difficult as the boulder problem between the first and second bolts.

By ferrells
From: Minneapolis, MN
Apr 8, 2012

When I got on it a few weeks ago, it felt good and natural to work into it using the starting arete.
Does anyone have a grade or quality suggestion when it's climbed this way?