Super Direct 5.10+
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 900 feet, Grade IV |
| Consensus: | 5.10+ [details] |
| FA: | Nils & R.M Preshaw, 1992 |
| Season: | summer |
| Submitted By: | harihari on Jul 30, 2010 |
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Here is a topo picture of the route.
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Description A superb and varied trad line with bolted rappels on the West Face of Snowpatch Spire. I am putting this on here because
(a) it needs more traffic
(b) we cleaned P2 and it's awesome now
(c) the guide is vague on gear
(d) I have slightly better pitch beta, which is as follows:
P1 20m 5.9 corner to gear belay where crack divides. You can see the final rap station to climber's right across from you, under a small roof-- pins and slings.
P2 55m 10c lieback with good feet and lots of gear. Gear belay atop corner where things ease off. This pitch was cleaned in July 2010.
P3 20m 5.8 Go up about 8m, go right past one 5.8 move, and up to a bolted belay (rap station) which is about 5m left of the corner.
P4 5.6 ~45m Go up the broken gully past another rap station until you find a steeper block that looks like it could be liebacked. Belay under this on gear.
P5 5.8 50m Pass the lieback block, and fire up the stembox in a long pitch until you get to a sling belay off a horn at the base of the huge white wall. Very cool pitch.
P6 5.10c 50m Traverse the finger-ledge slightly up and right in superb position past a rap station (clip for pro), clip an ancient bolt, then fire right, up the arete/crack and back left to another rap station where you belay.
P7 5.10+ 50m Traverse down 10m left, then head up the awesome right-facing corner, liebacking, stemming and body-jamming, exiting either up and left or up and right to fixed belays. Many long slings. This pitch has some burly moves but there is tons of good gear in all sizes.
Location West Face of Snowpatch Spire, topping out between N and S summits.
Protection 2x camalots from .3-#2, 1x #3 and #4, nuts, long slings, a couple of extra finger-sized pieces for P2.
By Eugene Kwan
Aug 10, 2012
| Great route! Should get done a lot more often. The line is amazing and reminded me of Yosemite.
Additional beta:
- route can be rappelled with one 70 m rope; should also be possible with a 60 m, though there might be a small amount of downclimbing
- extra medium nuts would be useful for P1 and P2
- the route is cold in the morning. The sun hit the route around 12:30 (Aug 9/12) and we didn't head up until then. Don't bother with an early start.
- The traverse on pitch 6 is a bit spicy, but I would call it 5.9, not 10c. |
By Tim Banfield
From: Calgary, Alberta
Sep 10, 2012
rating: 5.10+ PG13
| Kind of thought that the 2 last pitches were a bit serious for the 2nd. They were a bit heady for the leader too.
- We took 2 ropes so that we could rap without the intention of using our tag line on the climb. I was super stoked as the 2nd to have the tag line on the last 2 pitches. Sam was able to tag the 2nd line up and protect me on the traverse from above.
- We also thought that for additional gear we would add 2 sets of cams below .3". I was certainly glad to have them on the second pitch leading at my limit. |
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