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P1- Climb the clean low angle slab for 160' to a bolted belay.
P2- Move right over a short, fun roof. Ascend the face above to a fixed belay below the impressive roof.
P3- Layback the 1" corner to the crack. The overhanging hand crack is Sweeeeeeet! Belay at it's top to avoid rope drag. (5.10)
P4- Move the belay up 35'
P4- A moderate pitch leads past bolts & pins to a belay at the midway ledge.(190')
P5- Ascend the ever steepening slab (great rock) past 2 bolts to a belay under a roof...5.7 or 5.8
P6- friction past bolts and a pin to a belay under a roof at 3 bolts. (same belay as Goat Heaven). Rap off using 2 ropes.
Variation: Superfingers...On pitch 2 traverse right and up to a belay beneath another overhanging crack. Crank out the overhanging fingers and hands to a belay at it's top. (5.11) Join Goat Heaven from here.
Variation: Aid Crack 15' below the overhanging Super Crack is a C1 aid crack...could go free.
Variation: Instead of climbing Super Crack (5.10) follow the fingercrack up the corner to the upper belay (5.8)
Variation: From Pitch 2, diagonal up & left to a bulge. Move back right, above the roof (don't fall) past 2 bolts to the upper belay.(5.8)
Start 15' left of Goat Heaven.
Extra hand sized cams to a #3 camalot.
Looking down through the crack from the belay.
Sep 25, 2007
You won't believe how steep this is until you climb it. Nice, juggy hands too.
|By Michael Stearns|
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Oct 1, 2008
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b
Short, but very steep. Lots of slab climbing for a very short crack. It is worth doing if you are looking for cracks to jam.
|By Todd Green|
From: SLC, UT
Sep 26, 2010
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b PG13
Very, very fun crack, overhanging with the infamous LCL (Little Cottonwood Lean) too bad it isn't longer. Doesn't seem like the upper pitches get much action given how much kitty litter we swept off of them. You can run both of the "P4s" together with a 70m so we didn't move the belay up as per the description above. You can almost run P5 and P6 together. (We ended up simulclimbing the last 15' or so, pretty much from the last bolt to the anchors.) Thanks for putting this up and the work on the trail to get there! A great alternative to the crowds directly across the canyon.
|By Pete Spri|
Sep 25, 2011
I don't know... I mean, it is a good crack, but it is only about 15 feet. For me, it was hands at the very bottom, but most of it was cupped hands and closer to fists. One set of cams up to 3.5" is fine for this route. One 2.5" cam from the stance at the bottom, one 3.5" cam after you make one or two moves from the bottom, then it's over. I think the gear recommendation of taking extra hand sizes is off, but that is just me.
If it was longer, or the climbing up to it was better it'd get 2 stars, but as is, it's just not enough of either to be more than 1 star, IMO.
|By Landon McBrayer|
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 25, 2011
"Super Crack" = misnomer.
a handful of smaller cams, one #2 and one #3 BD for the hand crack, a half-dozen draws and a few long slings will do it.
About half (or more) of this climb can be done without using your hands. We simul-climbed virtually everything above the hand crack (i.e., cupped-hands or fist crack).
From: Small Lake, UT
Sep 25, 2011
Supercrack, 6 pitches, 5 of which are slabs. You guys heard of Bushwack? Go do that next time and moan that there isn't enough slabbing on it...