One of the very best climbs of the grade at the New. Continuously difficult. Use longer slings at the bottom roof to avoid rope drag higher up. Save your strength and #1 and #2 cams for the crux up top. Some spectacular whippers from the very last moves have been seen.
Just to the right of the yellow face with the bolted Gun Club there's a corner with a prominent crack in it. This is the climb.
Small and hand size cams, and a set of nuts provide excellent pro. Bolted anchor.
By Ed Wade
From: Hermann, MO
Oct 28, 2015
A single 70m will get you down to your packs. A 60m will not. You will need to rap to the ledge by the start of Transcendence and walk back around. This climb is roughly 120ft. Anchors are up and left after you mantle up on the ledge. Very nice to have a BD 1 & 2 for the top.