|Medlicott Dome East End
P1- grovely approach pitch up some dirty ledges and knobs up to a 8 foot 4" OW that you can kind of finagle through on face holds. Not fun. But, it puts you on a good belay ledge. 40'
P2- Fabulous!! Start up a finger crack in the shallow corner. Good gear and knobs appear for feet when it looks like things will get challenging. The fingercrack hits the main crack after 30 feet, and it is hands glory for about 100 feet! Really nice crack, goes straight up. Trends right, then up a thin crack which closes, to a single bolt which protects some thin face moves on good knobs. A three bolt belay, two of which are equipped with rap rings. 170'
I would not suggest trying to link the pitches. It may be possible to do with a 70m, but it would be a little unpleasant. You definitely cannot do it with a 60m.
The route does top out, and the next pitch looks like AWESOME! lower angle knob climbing... but with zero pro. For those bolder than me, looks pretty fun up there.
100 feet east of the Yawn. 70 feet east of Wailing wall. Look for the crack that shoots up dead vertical above the blocky ledge.
Standard rack. You could use a #4 camalot to protect that OW move on the first pitch, and you could place it on the 2nd, but not necessary. I didn't use any small stuff.
You need two 60m ropes to rap the route.
BETA PHOTO: This is the way to go for the first pitch, nice 5....
|By john durr|
From: Joshua Tree, CA
Aug 21, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
There are plenty of options for the first pitch, but most will find the furthest left very pleasant and climbs a nice 5.7 hand crack, not the 4" OW mentioned above which is gross. See the photo for visual aids.
|By Greg Barnes|
Aug 15, 2009
John is right, take the left-most line at the start and it's good quality and fun.
The 3rd pitch is awesome - for about 80 or 100 feet. Then it gets sucky, thin slab with crumbly edges, and the belay is still a ways above you (40' or so). No pro, you can't even tie off a single knob, and since you've gone a bit right, you're looking at falling over the edge of the main blunt arete. Yikes!
Above that are another few pitches, with short bits of steep crack, runout knobs, face, etc. All a bit crumbly here and there, with lots of options. We picked some steeper knobby face to find the best climbing, but it was a bit contrived (i.e. easier dirty climbing off left).
You can also climb up from the 2nd pitch belay, traverse left all the way across the crack-to-ledge, and finish Chicken Little (5.8 R, wandering). The traverse is runout for both leader and follower.
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Apr 19, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fun route. I'd recommend doing it as a marathon single pitch, as long as you think about rope drag.
|By Johnny Y|
Nov 15, 2012
Linked it into one mega pitch, but had to climb the OW for less rope drag, can be protected by a #3 on the bottom half and #4 near the top, bit of a grunt but not too bad. In retrospect, it would be more enjoyable to do it as 2 pitches, rope drag is unavoidable when you link them, and that makes the last couple of face move quite challenging