Sunshine Wall Rock Climbing
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|Location: ||37.6058, -119.0235 View Map Incorrect?
|Page Views: ||2,765|
|Administrators: ||Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, John Robinson, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)|
|Submitted By: ||Euan Cameron on Sep 9, 2013|
Getting to grips with the crux sequence on Faithfu...
Sunshine wall is hidden in the trees on the west side of the lake and hosts a number of good quality moderate climbs. The wall is made up of a main slab approximately 100' high and a slightly shorter section which holds a couple of routes on the right.
All the routes are on excellent rock with a fine position.
As the name suggests the wall gets plenty of sunshine (at least until 2pm) so plan accordingly, depending on the time of year.
The stand out route of the wall is Little Gem
, which climbs beautifully up the right side of the main slab.
With a very short approach (less than 10 minutes walk) and good rock this area will be popular.
From the Horseshoe Lake parking area follow the path south along the western side of the lake. Cross over 4 footbridges (see picture below) and just when you cross a small stream (with no bridge) take a right up into the forest.
Follow the faint trail for about 30 yards until another stream crossing and then turn right and follow the stream up a steep slope for a few yards. At the top of the slope head up and leftwards towards the granite outcrop that you will now see through the tree.
Continue to the base of the tall slabby face.
The approach takes less then 10 minutes.
Weather station 4.4 miles from here
7 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Sunshine Wall
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Sunshine Wall
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Sunshine Wall:
Little Gem 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Hedgehog 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Featured Route For Sunshine Wall
Little Gem 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c CA
: Sierra Eastside
: ... : Sunshine Wall
Start a few feet right of the toe of the buttress. Climb up rightwards following the groove until possible to move directly up the steepening slab.Climb directly up the wide shallow groove feature to gain quartz dike holds above. Follows these holds up the wall to just below the top, then finish direct to the right of the pine tree....[more] Browse More Classics in CA
BETA PHOTO: Sunshine Wall
BETA PHOTO: Sunshine Wall Selective Topo
The enchanting forest walk on the approach to Suns...
BETA PHOTO: Sunshine Wall Right-side Topo
Passing the crux on the first ascent of Faithful F...
BETA PHOTO: Sunshine Surprise 5.9 Topo
BETA PHOTO: Sunshine Wall Main Slab Topo
Aug 9, 2015
Getting there ...
From the Horseshoe Lake parking (GPS lat long approx N37.6129 W119.0209), the approach is about 150 vertical feet of uphill over 0.5 mile distance (45 vertical meters over 0.85 km distance). Typical approach times in the range of 10-20 minutes.
We found it this way ...
Walk on the obvious bicycle path South about 0.35 mile (600 meters), crossing five bridges. Where the bike path crosses a little creek (usually dry) with no bridge (N37.6072 W119.0225), exactly there turn Right off the bike trail onto a faint trail.
. (If reach the a bridge with a wood handrail on one side, you've gone too far).
. (If you reach the Horseshoe Slabs crag, you've gone way too far).
Follow the faint dirt path generally SSW about 0.1 mile (170 meters) distance, up through the big trees, crossing a couple little (dry) creeks, with some steep sections and curves, to reach the Sunshine Wall.
. (my GPS recorded N37.6058 W119.0235, fairly close to what this MP page says).