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Snowpatch Spire
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Sunshine Wall 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c R

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 20 pitches, 2000', Grade V
Original:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c R [details]
FA: Art Higbee and David Breashears, 1975
Page Views: 1,682
Submitted By: Ken Trout on Feb 22, 2010

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Where Sunshine wall used to start

Rock Climbing Photo: Sunshine Wall Collapse
Sunshine Wall Collapse

The key to getting up this route without doing 5.12c fell off, some time before 2007. I always thought this route was as good as Half Dome. Thank you for pointing out the collapse, Hanshan.

I took off the route description since climbers interested in the east face are not usually looking for the easy way. Super Direct for example.

Super Direct Topo: mountainproject.com/images/26/...

HISTORY
Art Higbee and David Breashears once needed no introduction, but 1975 was awhile ago. Climbers took big risks then to leave no trace. True to the clean climbing code, Higbee and Breashears published little about this alpine route of impressive size. A hand-drawn topo was left in the Hut Book.


Photos of Sunshine Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Sunshine Wall from Applebee Photo by MP contributo...
BETA PHOTO: Sunshine Wall from Applebee Photo by MP contributo...
Rock Climbing Photo: Early sun-hit on Snowpatch's east face. Photo by M...
BETA PHOTO: Early sun-hit on Snowpatch's east face. Photo by M...
Rock Climbing Photo: Detail of Sunshine Wall photo by MP contributor Jo...
BETA PHOTO: Detail of Sunshine Wall photo by MP contributor Jo...
Rock Climbing Photo: Map of Sunshine Wall contour interval:  100 feet  ...
BETA PHOTO: Map of Sunshine Wall contour interval: 100 feet ...

Comments on Sunshine Wall Add Comment
Show which comments
By hanshan
From: Canada Mofuga
Aug 30, 2011

This climb no longer exists. The flake at the start fell off years ago, there is a 5.12c direct start farther right.
By Ken Trout
From: Golden, CO
Nov 2, 2015

Wow, this route really is like the regular route on Half Dome! Sorry to have missed your revelation Hanshan. Thank you!

Maybe instead of 5.12, just a new bolt ladder like Half Dome - it is a lot easier than the other east face routes, almost certainly no one has ever taken it to the true summit. Valley Giants might make the chimney fun too.

This photo with beta for Superdirect on the west side shows how hard it might be to climb to the highest summit.
mountainproject.com/images/26/...

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