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Sunshine Wall

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Sunshine Wall  


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Location: 38.86085, -109.74243 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 88,750
Administrators: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Peter Gram on May 16, 2003
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Read about Anchor Replacement and Restrictions in Arches National Park MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The Sunshine Wall is a long formation of Wingate sandstone that runs north to south for probably a mile or more. To the north (left) side of the formation, the walls are slabby with routes having mixed bolts and natural pro. The southern part of the formation has small twisted towers and steeper rock.

Getting There 

Sunshine Wall can either be reached by driving roads east from US 191 or by going through Arches NP on a gravel road. Probably the fastest way is from 191. Look for a good non-paved road heading east between mile markers 152 and 153. Drive about a mile, and then take a right immediately after crossing a small bridge. In another ~2 miles, take a right at a T-junction. From here start looking for Sunshine Wall. It will be obvious on the left, and a mild 4WD road cuts off left to the base.

To get to the Sunshine Wall through the park, take a left on Salt Valley trail and follow it to the edge of the park, which is obvious with a fence and a cattle guard. Keep going a couple of miles and watch for Sunshine Wall on the right.

Climbing Season



Weather station 7.7 miles from here

16 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',9],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',3],['5.8',2],['5.9',6],['5.10',2],['5.11',1],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Sunshine Wall:
Tezcatlipoca   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Sunshine Wall Routes
Learning Curve   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 120'   Sunshine Wall Routes
Melanoma Shuffle   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 140'   Sunshine Wall Routes
Love Hurts   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 120'   Sunshine Wall Routes
Science Friction   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13     Sport, 1 pitch, 160'   Sunshine Wall Routes
Lesson in Braille   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 80'   Sunshine Wall Routes
Walking on Sunshine   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Sunshine Wall Routes
Browse More Classics in Sunshine Wall

Featured Route For Sunshine Wall
Science Friction (5.9+). Sunshine Wall, Arches Nat...

Science Friction 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13  UT : Moab Area : ... : Sunshine Wall Routes
A nice route, especially for aspiring slab leaders. (Yes, there are such people...) Technical crux is well protected (between bolts 3-5). The "mental" crux begins mid-route at the odd and tricky right-angling seam (sandy in spots). A couple widely-spaced drilled pitons protect this section. Follow seam to top.Occasional rests....to reflect and question yourself, of course. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Photos of Sunshine Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Sunshine Wall.  Climber; George Armstrong.  Photo;...
Sunshine Wall. Climber; George Armstrong. Photo;...
"Cowboy" pertoglyphs......Photo   Todd G...
"Cowboy" pertoglyphs......Photo Todd G...
The Sunshine Wall with some areas/routes marked fo...
The Sunshine Wall with some areas/routes marked fo...
Sunshine Wall
Sunshine Wall
We loved the views, esp. the beautiful partly clou...
We loved the views, esp. the beautiful partly clou...
Erica working out her her Yoga stretches in our be...
Erica working out her her Yoga stretches in our be...
Dogs loved it.
Dogs loved it.
Left side of the Sunshine Wall.
Left side of the Sunshine Wall.

Comments on Sunshine Wall Add Comment
Show which comments
By Anonymous Coward
Jun 11, 2005
This road to the sunshine wall can be a serious quagmire if there has been any recent precip. It is that "moondust" type stuff that turns into a burley slick clay when wet. We got our 2wd car stuck up to the doors trying to "go for it". Just a heads up. the newer looking line on the wall (this sight shows it as "melanoma shuffle") was a fun route, and the hidden bolt at the "roof" was a happy surprise. Fun route!
By westy
From: Loveland, Co
Jun 10, 2006
Note.....after the "T" go right for about 1.5 miles and take the second left turn,,,,,,caution,,,,,you need a 4 x 4 for this or stop short becuase you will get stuck in the soft sand. The rock is brown, white and red just like the neopolitan ice cream.
By toddgordon
From: Joshua Tree, California
Apr 28, 2007
A group of friends ventured out to do these cool climbs a few years ago;.... the slab climbs were cool, but not as cool as the "coyboy" petroglyphs on the boulders;....the naked lady one was a favorite of our clan of climbers. This place is really worth a visit;...it's stark, quiet ( I hope) , and quite beautiful. A place to experience and enjoy with pals.
By Tea
Aug 31, 2007
These climbs do not exist within the park boundaries.
By Dave Fiorucci
From: Boulder, Colorado
Sep 25, 2007
I am heading to Moab. Does anybody know if you can bring dogs to the Sunshie Wall.., It looks like camping is an option from the photo, but is it pay per use or is it primitive camping?
By tom selleck
Sep 26, 2007
Primitive camping. Dogs OK. Really pretty cool area that doesn't seem to attract a lot of people.
By rob bauer
From: Golden, CO
Aug 25, 2010
If you camp there, there are also some routes farther left, North, of the Sunshine wall proper, in a shallow amplitheater. They are moderate and leadable, with bolts in place; but some of the anchor bolts didn't have anchors in 2005. Fun to do if you have a few hours to spend. A single rope will do the trick.
By jason malczyk
From: General Delivery
Nov 5, 2010
There are two unknown routes on the right slabs. One is right of Science Friction seemed 5.11, crimpy through roof. Other was right of and shared anchors with Walking on Sunshine.