Follow the main Turret Dome directions. When you're at the base of the slab it is about as obvious as can be. Sprint upwards. Gear is a bother, you have to move to the far right or left side of the slab. I suggest the old fashioned solo.
At the start of the bathtubs (you'll recognize them) move right into the gully & finish. If you ascend the bathtub area you'll encounter harder climbing than 5.0, but there are a couple ways to get off keeping it 5.4 (see finish for Schooldaze or traverse right below the final summit overhang & do some downclimbing).
Medium to large gear, but a solo is suggested.
|By Rob Dillon|
May 24, 2005
Makes for an efficient descent route from the summit.
Much easier than, say, DAFF Dome in Tuolumne, if that tells you anything.
|By Buff Johnson|
Jun 28, 2006
Has anyone "found" this route also: it skirts well climber's right of the easy slab. This route is East to NE Aspect starting up a left-facing dihedral flake for about 3 pitches (5.2 to 5.4); then 3rd class right then moving up and left to a shady belay under a gigantic right-facing flake (simul-climbed up to this point); 1 pitch of 5.6R to a comfy ledge; then finishes the upper headwall through an obvious weakness with a couple of 5.8 moves? It's an obvious natural line that probably has been climbed before (probably many times), but it's not the Sunshine Slab & not the Upper Lip. Just wondering what it is.
|By Gary Schmidt|
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 13, 2009
A fun outing and great beginner's route or just for fun to move on rock. We did 4 pitches starting to the right of a large fallen tree on the face. Placed about 2 or 3 pieces every long pitch. Took 4 pitches to end up at a nice belay below the headwall roof towards the east side. Did one more pitch to skirt east up and around the roof headwall. So far, no climbing harder than 5.4 or so. Found an obvious weakness in the headwall to get to the true summit. Probably closer to 5.8 but just two short moves at that grade. Cool summit. Bit of a tricky 4th class downclimb north and then easy hike back down the east side towards the picnic area. Solid rock the whole way and only encountered one very loose flake.
|By Daniel H. Bryant|
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Oct 12, 2013
Like the previous comments from above, once you top out on the slab, go to the right towards the summit. There are a couple of fun moves, prob a 5.6. Then the next pitch has the 5.7/8 move, but you can bypass that move by going around to the right about 45 feet, and there is a 5.4/5 move to the summit. This made reaching the summit 6 pitches. This route is perfect for learning and teaching trad placement, anchor building, belay techniques...one of the best places for learning and sharing.