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Mt. Hood
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Devil's Kitchen Headwall (DKH) - Left Variation  
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Sunshine Route 

Mod. Snow

   
Type: Snow, Alpine, 5300', Grade II
FA: 
Season: May, June, early July
Page Views: 1,735
Submitted By: Jeff Hebert on Jul 9, 2012
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Looking up the ridge just past the bergschrund 7/7...

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Description 

This is a great, relatively easy route up Mount Hood, avoiding the crowds of the South Side and catching great views of Adams, Rainier, and St. Helens along the way.

From Cloud Cap on the North side of Mount Hood, ascend the Timberline Trail to the moraine and continue toward Cooper Spur until reaching a large cairn. Follow the climber's trail down to the Eliot Glacier. Cross the glacier and head for the Snow Dome, ascend the dome and continue past Anderson Rock, trending up and right looking for a snow bridge to gain the ridge or a traverse over to gain it. Climb the ridge to the summit.

If the road to Cloud Cap is open, you'll be able to cut off nearly 4 miles and a bit over 2,000ft of elevation on the Tilly Jane trail.


Location 

North face, starting at Cloud Cap


Protection 

Standard glacier-travel gear



Photos of Sunshine Route Slideshow Add Photo
The bulk of the Sunshine Route is visible and marked.  Crossing Anderson Rock and the bergschrund will change, depending on conditions.  Earlier season ascents can go directly toward Horseshoe Rock rather than traversing West around the berg. <br /> <br />Photographed on July 9, 2011 from Cloud Cap.
The bulk of the Sunshine Route is visible and mark...
Looking back toward the Snow Dome from just below the bergschrund 7/9/11
Looking back toward the Snow Dome from just below ...
Sunrise on Mt. Adams from the base of Mt. Hood's Snow Dome 7/7/12
Sunrise on Mt. Adams from the base of Mt. Hood's S...
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By Taylor Bentz
Dec 15, 2013

This spring did this solo. Started at TJ TH as cloud cap road wasn't open. Bivied above the snow dome, for an amazing clear night. Woke up, went straight up to the ridge through the rocks (no traverse as it was looking unstable). Tried to ski off the cooper spur route but it hadn't softened up enough so I went down the south side. AMAZING skiing straight from the top.