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Mt. Hood
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Cooper Spur T 
Devil's Kitchen Headwall (DKH) - Left Variation  
Elliot Glacier Headwall 
Leuthold Couloir T 
North Face, The T 
Ravine T 
Reid Glacier Headwall 
Sandy Glacier Headwall T 
South Side Route T 
Sunshine Route 
West Crater Rim Route (WCR) 
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Sunshine Route 

Mod. Snow

Type:  Snow, Alpine, 5300', Grade II
Season: May, June, early July
Page Views: 3,232
Submitted By: Jeff Hebert on Jul 9, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Looking up the ridge just past the bergschrund 7/7...


This is a great, relatively easy route up Mount Hood, avoiding the crowds of the South Side and catching great views of Adams, Rainier, and St. Helens along the way.

From Cloud Cap on the North side of Mount Hood, ascend the Timberline Trail to the moraine and continue toward Cooper Spur until reaching a large cairn. Follow the climber's trail down to the Eliot Glacier. Cross the glacier and head for the Snow Dome, ascend the dome and continue past Anderson Rock, trending up and right looking for a snow bridge to gain the ridge or a traverse over to gain it. Climb the ridge to the summit.

If the road to Cloud Cap is open, you'll be able to cut off nearly 4 miles and a bit over 2,000ft of elevation on the Tilly Jane trail.


North face, starting at Cloud Cap


Standard glacier-travel gear

Photos of Sunshine Route Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The bulk of the Sunshine Route is visible and mark...
The bulk of the Sunshine Route is visible and mark...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking back toward the Snow Dome from just below ...
Looking back toward the Snow Dome from just below ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Sunrise on Mt. Adams from the base of Mt. Hood's S...
Sunrise on Mt. Adams from the base of Mt. Hood's S...

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By Taylor Bentz
Dec 15, 2013

This spring did this solo. Started at TJ TH as cloud cap road wasn't open. Bivied above the snow dome, for an amazing clear night. Woke up, went straight up to the ridge through the rocks (no traverse as it was looking unstable). Tried to ski off the cooper spur route but it hadn't softened up enough so I went down the south side. AMAZING skiing straight from the top.
By Michael Spiesbach
From: Albany, New York
May 23, 2014

Whats the Crevase situation on this route. I'm thinking about doing the cooper spur and coming down this route.. Is doing this without a rope team safe like the south side or am I asking to get swallowed up.. probably going late June

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