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Good views from the ridge.
The best rock quality out on the highway (second pitch)? Actually a fun multipitch although on the easy side, Sunshine Ridge is a great afternoon climb. The route starts about 50 feet up the scree gully below morning star. Look for bolts that lead left on a short slab. This is likely most often done as an afterwork solo. It is often done in the winter with tools, and is good prep for alpine mixed.
There are many possible variations that you can start on from the road including mayday, and the two unknown 5.10a's. If you're feeling creative you can also link the Thrombosis climbs into this route.
Pitch 1: 5.7, from some boulders about 50ft up the scree slab, climb past a few bolts (button head) and up onto the ridge. After about 60-70ft from the deck there is small ledge to belay off of with some gear. You can also keep climbing to one bolt one chain anchor above that. 150ft.
Pitch 2: 5.7 From the anchor climb up and to the left and climb a small bulge with some bolts. Climb up past bolts to a large boulder on a ledge. Belay from here. 120ft.
Pitch 3: 5.7 From the boulder climb up the face with some bolts. Climb the 5.6 moves to more easy climbing. There is a two bolt anchor above this. 100ft.
Pitch 4: 5.7 Climb up and left from the anchor to a left to a leftwards leaning crack, climb this and cut back right past a bolt to a two bolt anchor on a small ledge. There are also opportunities to belay from gear above the anchor. 100ft
To descend follow the trail left that will take you down to the car. I have seen some creative and sketchy raps of this route. Usually using the sawed off telephone poles. This is generally not recommended.
This route can be done on a rack of quick draws by most parties, although for those less comfortable with significant runouts in easy climbing, a single rack of cams maybe .3 in to 1.5 inches or stoppers would be fine. You can skip all the bolts and climb this route on gear by staying either right or left. Regardless of whether you choose to clip bolts or plug gear, bring plenty of slings to reduce drag, and plenty of anchor material, including some long sections of webbing or cord to sling the big boulder.
Hailey on the 2nd pitch of Sunshine Ridge
Wesley looks for bolts on Sunshine Ridge
Stoke levels high after summit.
By Richard Shore
May 27, 2013
I'd say the climb is closer to 450 feet in length - I stretched the first and last pitches to 45-50M each. Also, this thing is in a bit of disrepair - there are a handful of chopped bolts/stolen hangers, and the bolted belay atop P2 has been chopped (no biggie, gear belay from a solid hand-size crack or go up another 15' and tie off a boulder). The walk-off is to climber's left, and drops you very close to your car. Do not be tempted to descend climber's right - this gully is very loose, steep scree. I'll give it three stars for it's scenic views, length, and overall adventure feel.
From: the Climber Cave
Aug 31, 2013
Fun solo! Also, the entire climb goes on gear if you stay to the right.
May 16, 2014
Best route on the arm!
By The Shocker
Sep 26, 2014
Sunshine butress seems to have grown as many additional bolts in the last ten years as Anchorage has coffee shops.