Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Sunshine Face

Select Area...
Sunshine Face - Right Side 
Sunshine Face Left Side 

Sunshine Face 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 33.76971, -116.69451 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 41,351
Administrators: C Miller, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: C Miller on Jun 11, 2011
Forecast:
You & This Area
Best routes for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Darrell Hensel and Tim Powell on Voodoo Child. Ph...

Description 

This fantastic expanse of golden granite is stacked with suberb face and crack routes and is an area rich in climbing history.

Some of the better face climbs here include Hesitation (5.10a), Sundance (5.10b), Valhalla (5.11a), Iron Cross (5.11a), Moondance (5.11c), New Generation (5.11c) and Someone You're Not (5.12d).

Some of the better cracks here include Paisano Chimney (5.8), B.C.'s Ouch Chimney (5.9), The Drain Pipe (5.11b) and Tar and Feathers (5.11d).


Getting There 

Hike left past the Buttress of Cracks to reach this wall which sits just above and slightly right of the Smooth Sole Wall.


Climbing Season


38 Total Routes


['4 Stars',9],['3 Stars',11],['2 Stars',8],['1 Star',9],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',2],['5.9',4],['5.10',6],['5.11',18],['5.12',6],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Sunshine Face:
Hesitation   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 300'   Sunshine Face - Right Side
Sundike   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Sunshine Face - Right Side
Sundance   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   Sunshine Face - Right Side
Hesitation Direct   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch   Sunshine Face - Right Side
Valhalla   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   Sunshine Face - Right Side
Nirvana   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 160'   Sunshine Face - Right Side
Iron Cross   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 2 pitches, 230'   Sunshine Face - Right Side
Voodoo Child   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Sunshine Face - Right Side
The Drain Pipe   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   Sunshine Face - Right Side
Moondance   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 2 pitches, 300'   Sunshine Face - Right Side
New Generation   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 3 pitches, 280'   Sunshine Face - Right Side
Ishi   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Trad, 2 pitches, 300'   Sunshine Face - Right Side
Browse More Classics in Sunshine Face

Featured Route For Sunshine Face
Finishing the crux pitch of Moondance.

Moondance 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a  CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : ... : Sunshine Face - Right Side
Sustained climbing on beautiful, impeccable gold rock. Brilliant route - one of the best on the face, without a doubt. Pitch 1: Start on Sundance's easy 5.7 crack. About 30' up set up a belay, either on the top of the flake or at the base of the Sundance lieback. If the belay remains on the ground it won't be possible to reach the anchors at the end of the pitch. Climb up and left onto the steep bulge and pass two bolts (11c). Continuous climbing leads past six more bolts and finishes...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Comments on Sunshine Face Add Comment
Show which comments
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Mar 14, 2013

I have a young friend (a good guy) who has done a lot of sport climbing; he said he'd feel really good if he could lead comfortably at 5.12. I told him that a better ambition would be to lead every route on the Sunshine Face up to 5.11+. It's not about the grade, it's about the rock and the lines we draw upon it.