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Sunshine Face

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Sunshine Face - Left Side 
Sunshine Face - Right Side 

Sunshine Face Rock Climbing 


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Location: 33.76971, -116.69451 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 7,686
Administrators: C Miller, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: C Miller on Jun 11, 2011
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Darrell Hensel and Tim Powell on Voodoo Child. Ph...

Description 

This fantastic expanse of golden granite is stacked with suberb face and crack routes and is an area rich in climbing history.

Some of the better face climbs here include Hesitation (5.10a), Sundance (5.10b), Valhalla (5.11a), Iron Cross (5.11a), Moondance (5.11c), New Generation (5.11c) and Someone You're Not (5.12d).

Some of the better cracks here include Paisano Chimney (5.8), B.C.'s Ouch Chimney (5.9), The Drain Pipe (5.11b) and Tar and Feathers (5.11d).

Getting There 

Hike left past the Buttress of Cracks to reach this wall which sits just above and slightly right of the Smooth Sole Wall.

Climbing Season



Weather station 1.8 miles from here

38 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',10],['3 Stars',10],['2 Stars',8],['1 Star',9],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',2],['5.9',4],['5.10',6],['5.11',18],['5.12',6],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Sunshine Face

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Sunshine Face:
Hesitation   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 300'   Sunshine Face - Right Side
Sundike   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Sunshine Face - Right Side
Sundance   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   Sunshine Face - Right Side
Hesitation Direct   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch   Sunshine Face - Right Side
The Man Who Fell to Earth   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 160'   Sunshine Face - Left Side
Iron Cross   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 2 pitches, 230'   Sunshine Face - Right Side
Valhalla   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   Sunshine Face - Right Side
Nirvana   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 160'   Sunshine Face - Right Side
Voodoo Child   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Sunshine Face - Right Side
The Drain Pipe   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   Sunshine Face - Right Side
Moondance   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 2 pitches, 300'   Sunshine Face - Right Side
New Generation   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 3 pitches, 280'   Sunshine Face - Right Side
Ishi   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Trad, 2 pitches, 300'   Sunshine Face - Right Side
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Sunshine Face

Featured Route For Sunshine Face
Rock Climbing Photo: Ivan Couch drilling on the first ascent, pitch 1.

Valhalla 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c  CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : ... : Sunshine Face - Right Side
This ultra-classic tour of the Sunshine Face is perhaps the best face climb of it's grade at the rock, and long ago an ascent was a rite of passage that gained you entry into the fabled Stonemasters.Scramble up to a ledge with a pine tree directly below Log Ledge, a sloping shelf with a dead log, and locate the start which lies just right of the pine tree.P1) Climb past three bolts (5.11a) to the right side of Log Ledge and a 2 bolt belay. P2) Traverse straight right, clip a bolt a...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Comments on Sunshine Face Add Comment
Show which comments
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: Big Bear Lake
Mar 14, 2013
I have a young friend (a good guy) who has done a lot of sport climbing; he said he'd feel really good if he could lead comfortably at 5.12. I told him that a better ambition would be to lead every route on the Sunshine Face up to 5.11+. It's not about the grade, it's about the rock and the lines we draw upon it.

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