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Wheel, The T 

Sunshine Dust Bunnies 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport
Original:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: J Ouyang, Nick Wiltsie, Brian Pidduck (Spring 2005)
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,413
Submitted By: Matthew Fienup on Aug 19, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Sunshine Dust Bunnies topo

Description 

One of the newest route at Wheeler Gorge.

Location 

Starts the same as Exodus and heads left.

Protection 

4-5 bolts, 2 bolt anchor with one rap-ring and one open shut (an odd pairing).


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By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Aug 23, 2006

First Ascent party called the route 5.6. I have only climbed Exodus which shares the first bolt or two; however, I remember the start of that route feeling at least 5.8 and perhaps harder. Please share your thoughts about an appropriate grade for Dust Bunnies.
By kraus56
Jun 10, 2008

Not 5.6 at all. More like mid 10 Wheeler style
By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Jun 30, 2009

Finally got on this route today--the initial overhang is definitely 5.10-. Midway up the route, the climber is forced to pull on loose, hollow-sounding flakes for over a body-length of climbing. If a hold were to break, you'd take a huge, swinging fall. Scared the s*#t out of me.

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