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The Dihedrals
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Almost Nothing 
Ancylostoma 
Bookworm 
Bunny Face 
Captain Xenolith 
Chain Reaction 
Cinnamon Slab 
Crossfire 
Cry Babies 
Darkness At Noon 
Easy Reader 
Evil Sister aka Ugly Sister 
Flat Earth, The 
Fox In Socks 
French Connection 
Ginger Snap 
Go Dog Go 
Heinous Cling 
Helium Woman 
Karate Crack 
Karate Wall (aka Powerline) 
Karot Tots 
Last Waltz 
Latest Rage 
Latin Lover 
Left Slab Crack 
Lichen It 
Lycopodophyta 
Middle Aged Vandal 
Moondance 
Moonshine Dihedral 
Night Flight 
Powder in the Eyes 
Rabbit Stew 
Rattlesnake Chimney 
Right Slab Crack 
Rodney's Chocolate Frosted Love Donut 
Slow Burn 
Sunshine Dihedral 
Take a Powder 
To Bolt Or Not To Be 
Vision 
Watts Totts 
Wedding Day 

Sunshine Dihedral 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a [details]
FA: FFA Alan Watts & Alan Lester, 1981
Page Views: 5,021
Submitted By: Vernon Stiefel on Apr 16, 2006
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Description 

Technical stemming up an ominous dihedral combined with a few powerful moves over bulging sections is encountered on this classic test piece. Although the crux (11+) is at a steep bulge about 10' above a 1/4" bolt and 80' off the deck, difficult moves occur right off the ground and continue to the anchors at the top of Pitch #1.


Location 

This obvious line in the dihedrals is just right of To Bolt Or Not To Be and left of Powder in the Eyes.


Protection 

Multiple stoppers, RP's, HB offsets, and small cams (I didn't use anything larger than an orange TCU). There are also two old bolts (1/4" and 5/16") and a piton that will probably still arrest a fall. Anchors are at the top of Pitch #1.



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By jrb
From: Vancouver, WA
Apr 25, 2006

I've led this route a few times, and have to say that it is NOT PG-13 line. The gear isn't the best at the start, but it is there. For the most part it's small nuts, with some small cams (I want to say blue to orange TCUs). Bring at least 10 draws. I find the crux above the first bolt, but you can get a GREAT stopper above the bolt so you are not whipping on the bolt.

By Luke Stefurak
From: Mountain View, CA
Jun 29, 2009

Both bolts are bomber and 3/8". It seems the 1st bolt got moved up about a foot and you have to do some pretty hard moves before getting it clipped (unless you pre hang a draw or sling).

By Lizzy Trower
From: Stanford, CA
Aug 6, 2009

I absolutely recommend this route for any other ladies out there with small fingers who are comfortable with small gear. This was a great technical route! Also didn't find it to be PG13 or R. Just bring the small cams (aliens, C3s were good) and the RPs.

By Max Tepfer
From: Bend, OR
Nov 8, 2009

+1 for not PG13. Additionally, as of a month ago, the hanger on the first bolt was loose. I got it back to finger tight, but a wrench would be a better option.

By Amy Ohran
From: Bend, Or
Mar 22, 2012

I love stem routes with small gear, but have to admit this put me at my mental limit. It's safe, but saucy.