The name says it all. This is the sunny cliff above the Cookie. Don Reid omitted this cliff from his book but people have been enjoying the climbing here since the early 1970's. Expect solitude while climbing on excellent rock in the winter sun. Home to a handful of good bolted routes as well as the old classics Corn Corner and Capital Punishment.
Park at a pullout (do not block maintenance road) at the west end of the longest tunnel on Hwy 120. Descend 3rd. class under power lines with fixed ropes in place. When the cliff on the river side of the descent ends, head west and continue along the base of the cliff.
This is a good corner climb with some loose rock at the bottom and some hollow sections in the middle. The crux is a wider section half way up. Be sure to bring your wide pro for this one, but offwidth technique is not needed as there are many features to step and pull on.After belaying from bushes there are a few options:1)Escape off to the east and descend the 3rd class power lines.(Same as for the approach)2)Rappel off of the belay bushes down Hobknob to a two bolt anchor, then one more ra...[more]Browse More Classics in CA