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South Buttress 
Sunken Treasure 
Sunset Streaks 

Sunset Streaks 

5.10a

   
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Type: Sport, 4 pitches, 400 feet, Grade II
Consensus: 5.10a [details]
FA: Jeff Brown & Keli Balo
Submitted By: Daniel Wade on Feb 28, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Sweet third pitch

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  • Description 

    Beautiful climb! Thanks to Adam Kimmerly for his beta. Here's the pitch breakdown:

    P1 - climb obvious gully, moving right onto exposed arete to gain the first belay. 60 feet. 5.7

    P2 - climb past slabs to intermediate ledge, continue up steepening face to large ledge. 80 ft. 5.8

    P3 - climb over steep bulge to gain the dike seen from below. spectacular climbing. 80 ft. 5.9

    P4 - leave the large belay ledge and continue climbing the dike to the summit. 100 ft. 5.10a

    There is a variation for the P4 which moves left and crosses over Crap Duster via old pins and then climbs a steep arete to the summit. 5.9+ or 5.10


    Location 

    Start in the gulley to the right of Crap Duster (the wide crack where the falcons nest) and to the left of Scrotum. If rappelling from the summit, anchors take you right down the dike. From the base of the cliff, the white dike is the most obvious natural line on the face to the left of the South Buttress.


    Protection 

    10-12 quickdraws + gear for bolted anchors, extendable draws helpful on P1 and P2, Rappel with a 60M rope



    Photos of Sunset Streaks Slideshow Add Photo
    First pitch

    First pitch

    Second pitch

    Second pitch

    Nice new painted bolts

    Nice new painted bolts


    Comments on Sunset Streaks Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Adam Kimmerly
    Mar 5, 2012

    It's called "Sunset Streaks". 5.10a. FA: Jeff Brown & Keli Balo.

    By Michael Douglas
    From: Redlands, Ca
    Feb 19, 2013
    rating: 5.9+

    Great Route! 5 belay/rappel stations. When rappelling, do NOT double rope rappel to make rappelling faster; the rope will get stuck. Each belay/rap station is very comfortable and the climb can be done in three pitches. Bring at least 15 draws if you are planning to link pitches. We did it in 3. The description above is missing ~80ft of the climb.

    P1 - 5.7 overprotected so you can skip bolts. Extend as many as you can!! (~180ft)
    P2 - 5.8 (~90ft) / 5.9+ (~95ft)
    P3 - 5.9 (~90ft)


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