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Sweet third pitch
Beautiful climb! Thanks to Adam Kimmerly for his beta. Here's the pitch breakdown:
P1 - climb obvious gully, moving right onto exposed arete to gain the first belay. 60 feet. 5.7
P2 - climb past slabs to intermediate ledge, continue up steepening face to large ledge. 80 ft. 5.8
P3 - climb over steep bulge to gain the dike seen from below. spectacular climbing. 80 ft. 5.9
P4 - leave the large belay ledge and continue climbing the dike to the summit. 100 ft. 5.10a
There is a variation for the P4 which moves left and crosses over Crap Duster via old pins and then climbs a steep arete to the summit. 5.9+ or 5.10
Start in the gulley to the right of Crap Duster (the wide crack where the falcons nest) and to the left of Scrotum. If rappelling from the summit, anchors take you right down the dike. From the base of the cliff, the white dike is the most obvious natural line on the face to the left of the South Buttress.
10-12 quickdraws + gear for bolted anchors, extendable draws helpful on P1 and P2, Rappel with a 60M rope
Nice new painted bolts
|Comments on Sunset Streaks
|By Adam Kimmerly|
Mar 5, 2012
It's called "Sunset Streaks". 5.10a. FA: Jeff Brown & Keli Balo.
|By Michael Douglas|
From: Redlands, Ca
Feb 19, 2013
Great Route! 5 belay/rappel stations. When rappelling, do NOT double rope rappel to make rappelling faster; the rope will get stuck. Each belay/rap station is very comfortable and the climb can be done in three pitches. Bring at least 15 draws if you are planning to link pitches. We did it in 3. The description above is missing ~80ft of the climb.
P1 - 5.7 overprotected so you can skip bolts. Extend as many as you can!! (~180ft)
P2 - 5.8 (~90ft) / 5.9+ (~95ft)
P3 - 5.9 (~90ft)