Beautiful climb! Thanks to Adam Kimmerly for his beta. Here's the pitch breakdown:
P1 - climb obvious gully, moving right onto exposed arete to gain the first belay. 60 feet. 5.7
P2 - climb past slabs to intermediate ledge, continue up steepening face to large ledge. 80 ft. 5.8
P3 - climb over steep bulge to gain the dike seen from below. spectacular climbing. 80 ft. 5.9
P4 - leave the large belay ledge and continue climbing the dike to the summit. 100 ft. 5.10a
There is a variation for the P4 which moves left and crosses over Crap Duster via old pins and then climbs a steep arete to the summit. 5.9+ or 5.10
Start in the gulley to the right of Crap Duster (the wide crack where the falcons nest) and to the left of Scrotum. If rappelling from the summit, anchors take you right down the dike. From the base of the cliff, the white dike is the most obvious natural line on the face to the left of the South Buttress.
10-12 quickdraws + gear for bolted anchors, extendable draws helpful on P1 and P2, Rappel with a 60M rope
Sweet third pitch
BETA PHOTO: Anchors at the top of the route are hidden and har...
|By Adam Kimmerly|
Mar 5, 2012
It's called "Sunset Streaks". 5.10a. FA: Jeff Brown & Keli Balo.
|By Michael Douglas|
From: Redlands, Ca
Feb 19, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a
Great Route! 5 belay/rappel stations. When rappelling, do NOT double rope rappel to make rappelling faster; the rope will get stuck. Each belay/rap station is very comfortable and the climb can be done in three pitches. Bring at least 15 draws if you are planning to link pitches. We did it in 3. The description above is missing ~80ft of the climb.
P1 - 5.7 overprotected so you can skip bolts. Extend as many as you can!! (~180ft)
P2 - 5.8 (~90ft) / 5.9+ (~95ft)
P3 - 5.9 (~90ft)
From: San Diego, Ca
Nov 3, 2013
Super-clean, super-fun climb. The crazy nature of the incut features (like someone used a tile saw to cut handholds/steps) had me literally laughing at times, with a wide grin plastered on my face. The bouldery moves on the last pitch right below the top were my favorite. As far as the "deck potential" re: the first moves off the 2nd and 3rd belays: yeah, it's there, but you're really not all that high up. Not too much to sweat about IMO. We also linked Ps 1/2 and 3/4 w/60m rope.
|By Dan G0D5H411|
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jan 13, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a
We found it made sense to break up the pitch descriptions the same way the rappels are set up (almost any two can be linked):
1) 5.7 100ft
2) 5.8 80ft
3) 5.9 80ft
4) 5.10a 80ft
5) 5.9 80ft
Portions of the first pitch and the entire second pitch were mediocre at best, but once you start following the dike, the climbing was very entertaining. Watch out for the 1/4" relic that protects a funky move on one of the last two pitches! The Beta photo showing the rocks above the top anchors was dead-on and invaluable for finding the route from the summit.
From: Carlsbad, Ca
Feb 20, 2014
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a
Bou;dery Move at the exit is awesome and not too hard. The last pitches are terrific! I'd say the route is no harder than solid 5.9 but super fun!