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NOPE.NOPE. NOPE.NOPE.NOPE. 
Rising Moons 
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Sunset Slab 
Sunset Slab Direct 

Sunset Slab Direct 

5.7

   
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Type: Trad, 7 pitches, 1000 feet, Grade III
Consensus: 5.7 [details]
FA: 
Submitted By: Larry DeAngelo on Mar 26, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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BETA PHOTO: Sunset Slab, showing the standard route and the di...

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Description 

This is a slightly more interesting version of the Sunset Slab route. Start the same as the normal route: go up the short corner and set up the first belay on the ramp up and to the right. Where the second pitch starts to bear left toward the belay ledge, continue straight up and belay on a small stance in the varnished rock. The third pitch goes straight up the center of the buttress and directly over the varnished headwall (instead of bypassing on the left like the standard route). After another pitch of good slab climbing, the standard route is joined where it moves right onto the final rib.

This is a worthwhile variation to the normal route. It is a little more sustained and a little less protected, but not any more difficult technically.


Protection 

std rack



Photos of Sunset Slab Direct Slideshow Add Photo
Sunset Slab direct variation.  Instead of belaying on the left ledge on the 2nd pitch, belay in a small scoop in the middle of the wall.  Wander up the slab for 2 more pitches and rejoin the regular route.

Sunset Slab direct variation. Instead of belaying...

Looking down the second pitch of Sunset Slab Direct.

Looking down the second pitch of Sunset Slab Direc...

Pleasant slab climbing just below the varnished headwall.

Pleasant slab climbing just below the varnished he...