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Sunset Slab 
Sunset Slab Direct 

Sunset Slab Direct 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 7 pitches, 1000', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
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Page Views: 2,227
Submitted By: Larry DeAngelo on Mar 26, 2009
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Looking down the second pitch of Sunset Slab Direc...

Description 

This is a slightly more interesting version of the Sunset Slab route. Start the same as the normal route: go up the short corner and set up the first belay on the ramp up and to the right. Where the second pitch starts to bear left toward the belay ledge, continue straight up and belay on a small stance in the varnished rock. The third pitch goes straight up the center of the buttress and directly over the varnished headwall (instead of bypassing on the left like the standard route). After another pitch of good slab climbing, the standard route is joined where it moves right onto the final rib.

This is a worthwhile variation to the normal route. It is a little more sustained and a little less protected, but not any more difficult technically.


Protection 

std rack



Photos of Sunset Slab Direct Slideshow Add Photo
Sunset Slab, showing the standard route and the direct variation.
BETA PHOTO: Sunset Slab, showing the standard route and the di...
Sunset Slab direct variation.  Instead of belaying on the left ledge on the 2nd pitch, belay in a small scoop in the middle of the wall.  Wander up the slab for 2 more pitches and rejoin the regular route.
Sunset Slab direct variation. Instead of belaying...
Pleasant slab climbing just below the varnished headwall.
Pleasant slab climbing just below the varnished he...
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