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Sunset North

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Sense of Adventure T 
Alpha Omega T 
Ambidextrous T 
Another Fallen Angel T 
Arena, The T 
Banshee T 
Beginner's Route T 
Bill's Route T 
Broemel's Route T 
Broken Arrow T 
Bubble Bath T 
Cobb, The T 
Copperhead T 
Cornerstone T 
Crazy Eights T 
Diamond, The T 
Fault Line T 
Flagstone T 
Flute Loops T 
Fool's Gold T 
Friday the Thirteenth T 
Ghost Dancers T 
Golden Ledges T 
Grand Cave, The T 
Heavy Hands T 
Hit the Slopers T 
Horribilus Maximus T 
In the Corner T 
Jams and Shams T 
Jefferson Airplane T 
Jennifer's World T 
Jungle Gym T 
Lefthand Crack T,TR 
Lichen to Lose It T 
Mineral Fright T 
More Fun with Dick and Jane T 
Nuclear Blue T 
One-Ten T 
Prisoners of Zenda T 
Prow, The T 
R.J. Gold T 
Righthand Crack T,TR 
Rusty's Crack T 
S'More T 
Scare Voyager T 
Scream Wall T 
Scream Wall Direct T 
Slip Stream T 
Space Ranger T 
Spring Break T 
Stan's Crack T 
Stan's Crack Direct Finish T 
Stitch in Time T 
Sunset Boulevard T 
Tantrum T 
Terrier in Trouble T 
Test Tube T 
Thin Pockets T 
Toothpick T 
Total Eclipse T 
Water in Motion T 

Sunset North Rock Climbing 


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Page Views: 19,068
Administrators: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: saxfiend on Nov 23, 2006  with updates from drayray and 1 more
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Description 

Home of some of the earliest routes at Sunset. Classics include Bill's Route (5.8), Rusty's Crack (5.10a/b) and Jefferson Airplane (5.10a).

Getting There 

Take the trail down from the small parking lot at the top. When you come to the main cliffline trail, go right to Sunset North.

An alternative approach (with much better parking) is the trail from below the cliff, which starts at the Craven house. Follow this trail up for a little over a mile until you pass the park service kiosk; shortly after this, you'll be at the furthest end of the Sunset North climbs.

Climbing Season



Weather station 1.0 miles from here

61 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',7],['3 Stars',26],['2 Stars',21],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',3],['5.7',5],['5.8',10],['5.9',11],['5.10',14],['5.11',12],['5.12',5],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Sunset North

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Sunset North:
One-Ten   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Righthand Crack   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   
Slip Stream   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Bill's Route   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 100'   
S'More   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Stan's Crack   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 90'   
R.J. Gold   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Stan's Crack Direct Finish   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 95'   
Rusty's Crack   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Jefferson Airplane   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Broken Arrow   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Scream Wall Direct   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Scream Wall   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Alpha Omega   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Sunset Boulevard   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Flagstone   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 75'   
Cornerstone   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
The Prow   5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a     Trad   
Space Ranger   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 90'   
Jennifer's World   5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Sunset North

Featured Route For Sunset North
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up from the start of the route

Space Ranger 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a  TN : Sunset Park : Sunset North
A southern style trad route quintessential to the aspiring hardman/woman's ticklist. Comitting, safe, and with hard slab and steep roof in one pitch.This route climbs like multiple stacked boulder problems separated by good rests. Begin up the white face protecting with .3-.75 sized pieces. The initial section is deceptively pumpy, so don't underestimate the bottom 40'. This technical crux ends when you grab the huge ledge, or else log some huge flight time for missing it. Rest, then make some c...[more]   Browse More Classics in TN

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