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 ADVANCED
Sunset North

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Sense of Adventure T 
Alpha Omega T 
Arena, The T 
Banshee T 
Beginner's Route T 
Bill's Route T 
Broemel's Route T 
Broken Arrow T 
Bubble Bath T 
Cobb, The T 
Copperhead T 
Cornerstone T 
Crazy Eights T 
Fault Line T 
Flagstone T 
Flute Loops T 
Friday the Thirteenth T 
Ghost Dancers T 
Grand Cave, The T 
Heavy Hands T 
Horribilus Maximus T 
In the Corner T 
Jams and Shams T 
Jefferson Airplane T 
Jennifer's World T 
Lefthand Crack T,TR 
Lichen to Lose It T 
Mineral Fright T 
More Fun with Dick and Jane T 
One-Ten T 
Prisoners of Zenda T 
Prow, The T 
R.J. Gold T 
Righthand Crack T,TR 
Rusty's Crack T 
S'More T 
Scare Voyager T 
Scream Wall T 
Scream Wall Direct T 
Slip Stream T 
Space Ranger T 
Spring Break T 
Stan's Crack T 
Stan's Crack Direct Finish T 
Sticht in Time T 
Sunset Boulevard T 
Terrier in Trouble T 
Test Tube T 
Thin Pockets T 
Toothpick T 
Total Eclipse T 
Water in Motion T 
Unsorted Routes:

Sunset North  


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Administrators: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: saxfiend on Nov 23, 2006
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Description 

Home of some of the earliest routes at Sunset. Classics include Bill's Route (5.8), Rusty's Crack (5.10a/b) and Jefferson Airplane (5.10a).

Getting There 

Take the trail down from the small parking lot at the top. When you come to the main cliffline trail, go right to Sunset North.

An alternative approach (with much better parking) is the trail from below the cliff, which starts at the Craven house. Follow this trail up for a little over a mile until you pass the park service kiosk; shortly after this, you'll be at the furthest end of the Sunset North climbs.

Climbing Season



Weather station 1.0 miles from here

52 Total Routes

['4 Stars',8],['3 Stars',25],['2 Stars',15],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',2]
['<=5.6',3],['5.7',5],['5.8',9],['5.9',10],['5.10',11],['5.11',10],['5.12',3],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Sunset North:
One-Ten   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Righthand Crack   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   
Slip Stream   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Bill's Route   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 100'   
Ghost Dancers   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
S'More   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Stan's Crack   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 90'   
R.J. Gold   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Bubble Bath   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Stan's Crack Direct Finish   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 95'   
Jefferson Airplane   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Rusty's Crack   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Broken Arrow   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Scream Wall Direct   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Scream Wall   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Alpha Omega   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Sticht in Time   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 85'   
Cornerstone   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Flagstone   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 75'   
Jennifer's World   5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Browse More Classics in Sunset North

Featured Route For Sunset North
Just past the first right facing corner crux

Flagstone 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c  TN : Sunset Park : Sunset North
This route is located below the main lookout area and can be led or easily toproped. The beautiful face is extemely striking and starts at double thin cracks and moves into a right facing corner (crux #1). Placing pieces in these double crack seems like it would cause extreme rope drag. Pro it just under the roof and punch it on good but pumpy holds. Move into the obvious layback flake and then to the upper bolted face (crux #2)...[more]   Browse More Classics in TN

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