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 ADVANCED
Sunset North

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Sense of Adventure T 
Alpha Omega T 
Arena, The T 
Banshee T 
Beginner's Route T 
Bill's Route T 
Broemel's Route T 
Broken Arrow T 
Bubble Bath T 
Cobb, The T 
Copperhead T 
Cornerstone T 
Crazy Eights T 
Fault Line T 
Flagstone T 
Flute Loops T 
Friday the Thirteenth T 
Ghost Dancers T 
Grand Cave, The T 
Heavy Hands T 
Horribilus Maximus T 
In the Corner T 
Jams and Shams T 
Jefferson Airplane T 
Jennifer's World T 
Lefthand Crack T,TR 
Lichen to Lose It T 
Mineral Fright T 
More Fun with Dick and Jane T 
One-Ten T 
Prisoners of Zenda T 
Prow, The T 
R.J. Gold T 
Righthand Crack T,TR 
Rusty's Crack T 
S'More T 
Scare Voyager T 
Scream Wall T 
Scream Wall Direct T 
Slip Stream T 
Space Ranger T 
Spring Break T 
Stan's Crack T 
Stan's Crack Direct Finish T 
Sticht in Time T 
Sunset Boulevard T 
Terrier in Trouble T 
Test Tube T 
Thin Pockets T 
Toothpick T 
Total Eclipse T 
Water in Motion T 
Unsorted Routes:

Sunset North  


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Page Views: 34,130
Administrators: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: saxfiend on Nov 23, 2006
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Description 

Home of some of the earliest routes at Sunset. Classics include Bill's Route (5.8), Rusty's Crack (5.10a/b) and Jefferson Airplane (5.10a).

Getting There 

Take the trail down from the small parking lot at the top. When you come to the main cliffline trail, go right to Sunset North.

An alternative approach (with much better parking) is the trail from below the cliff, which starts at the Craven house. Follow this trail up for a little over a mile until you pass the park service kiosk; shortly after this, you'll be at the furthest end of the Sunset North climbs.

Climbing Season



Weather station 1.0 miles from here

52 Total Routes

['4 Stars',8],['3 Stars',25],['2 Stars',15],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',2]
['<=5.6',3],['5.7',5],['5.8',9],['5.9',10],['5.10',11],['5.11',10],['5.12',3],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Sunset North:
One-Ten   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Righthand Crack   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   
Slip Stream   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Bill's Route   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 100'   
Ghost Dancers   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
S'More   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Stan's Crack   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 90'   
Bubble Bath   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
R.J. Gold   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Stan's Crack Direct Finish   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 95'   
Jefferson Airplane   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Rusty's Crack   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Broken Arrow   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Scream Wall   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Scream Wall Direct   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Alpha Omega   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Sticht in Time   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 85'   
Cornerstone   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Flagstone   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 75'   
Jennifer's World   5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Browse More Classics in Sunset North

Featured Route For Sunset North
Stans Crack

Stan's Crack 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  TN : Sunset Park : Sunset North
This route follows a great handcrack in a left-facing corner for about 65-70 feet to a spacious belay ledge, at which point there is an obvious off-width (direct finish 9+) to the left or easier terrain to the right -- the original route goes right following mellow terrain to the anchors. I found the route to be sustained at the grade with no particular crux. The face holds are plentiful, so the rests come easy as does protection.Though it's officially a two-pitch route, Stan's Crack can easily ...[more]   Browse More Classics in TN

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