||Snow, Alpine, 3000'
|FA: ||Brad Washburn |
|Season: ||April - September|
|Page Views: ||230|
|Submitted By: ||A.P.Lee on Mar 7, 2013|
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heading towards the southeast ridge
|Register with the NP Mountaineering Headquarters in Talkeetna, AK before climbing in the park!|
Follow the Sunset Glacier to its upper basin and take the shorter southwesterly fork of the glacier over a bergschrund to the small col below the peak's south ridge. From here, climb the steep snow slope to the north then cross a small glacier to the east (beware of big cracks later in the summer). Gain the southeast ridge by climbing a short headwall (the routes crux). The slope here rolls to anywhere from 35-55 degrees. Depending on route choice, some may want to pitch out this short section, mainly because of a bergschrund, which can be particularly hairy. Once on the ridge, go uphill to the summit, beware of cornices to the northeast and avalanche activity to the south. The route is essentially a corkscrew up the mountain.
Basic glacier travel set up (piolet, crampons, pickets, etc...).