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Scott Peak
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Northeast Face 
Sunset Glacier 

Sunset Glacier 

Mod. Snow

Type:  Snow, Alpine, 3000'
FA: Brad Washburn
Season: April - September
Page Views: 230
Submitted By: A.P.Lee on Mar 7, 2013

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heading towards the southeast ridge

Register with the NP Mountaineering Headquarters in Talkeetna, AK before climbing in the park!


Follow the Sunset Glacier to its upper basin and take the shorter southwesterly fork of the glacier over a bergschrund to the small col below the peak's south ridge. From here, climb the steep snow slope to the north then cross a small glacier to the east (beware of big cracks later in the summer). Gain the southeast ridge by climbing a short headwall (the routes crux). The slope here rolls to anywhere from 35-55 degrees. Depending on route choice, some may want to pitch out this short section, mainly because of a bergschrund, which can be particularly hairy. Once on the ridge, go uphill to the summit, beware of cornices to the northeast and avalanche activity to the south. The route is essentially a corkscrew up the mountain.


Basic glacier travel set up (piolet, crampons, pickets, etc...).

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