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Old Tunnel Area
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Sunset Girl 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 55'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: 
Season: fall to spring
Page Views: 308
Submitted By: bio on Mar 25, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Description 

Last route along road. Mostly clean rock with powerful steep moves between 2nd and 3rd bolts and committing moves to bolts. Angles left and up steep crimps and gastons to easier climbing on second half.

Location 

left of womb with a view about 75 feet on last wall in the crag.

Protection 

bolts to two bolt anchor


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By brucy
Apr 22, 2010

In it's present condition, this 5 bolt route is at best but one star. The 1st two bolts are fun with the bouldery crux between 2 and 3; but, here's the rub- the route was most likely pink not redpointed on the 1st ascent with prehung draws on 3 and 4. If one attempts to hang their own draw on 3 they will find it not very much fun and much bolder then if a long draw is pre-placed on it allowing essentially a top rope crux. Clipping 4 is totally easy- if you're 6' tall, any less, and you'll likely have to do an additional move or two to clip. The climbing above 5 is fun too (albeit with friable stone), but, here's another problem: one clips the 5th from a big old no hands ledge, but the route designers decided to build in an "committing" ego based run out above it! Result- fall or break a hold and- you, might very well get "broken" (excellent engineering guys). The anchor is probably 4' higher then it should have been (unless you don't care about rope abrasion issues). Final tally: this is a route that "could" have been 2 stars (3 if a permanent long chain draw was installed on the 3rd bolt and another bolt was placed shortly above the 5th), likely to happen- not.....sad.