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Sunset Boulders
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Sunset Boulders Rock Climbing 


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Location: 38.42931, -123.11572 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 14,114
Administrators: Aron Quiter, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Aron Quiter on Feb 11, 2003
Forecast:
You & This Area
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A panorama of the main climbing area. Sunset Face...

Description 

This rock is mostly top roping, though at a "mere" 30 feet, many people choose to boulder a lot of the routes as well.

Being out in the open, this rock will always be in the sun on one side or the other. It's out in the open, so this is a great place to climb on a sunny day. On a foggy, windy day, there is very little protection from the elements, and this would be a very chilly place to be.

Most routes are probably best lowered off, though brave souls will need to downclimb a 5.2 route to get off of the rock.

Pelican Arete (5.10a) is a must do, and is a pretty tough 5.10a!

Getting There 

Approach time: 5 minutes.

From the turnoff into Gaot Rock State Park, drive ~ 1/4 mile to a large pullout on the left. There are several of these pullouts, and almost all will get you to the rocks. If the road goes up the hill and bends to the right, you've gone a little too far, and should turn around.

From the parking pullout, hike downhill into the meadow, where the rocks are a can't miss.

This is the tallest of the rocks.

Climbing Season



Weather station 7.2 miles from here

30 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',11],['2 Stars',16],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',1],['5.8',2],['5.9',0],['5.10',4],['5.11',2],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',5],['V2-3',9],['V4-5',4],['V6-7',3],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Sunset Boulders

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Sunset Boulders:
Pelican Arete   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     TR, Boulder, 1 pitch, 30'   Ram Rock
Sunset Face Left   V0- 4- R     TR, Boulder, 1 pitch, 30'   Ram Rock
Mid-Term   V0 4     Boulder, 10'   Mammoth Rock
Sunset Traverse   V2 5+     Boulder   Mammoth Rock
Skullcracker   V2 5+ R     Boulder, 10'   Lamb Boulder
Heel Hooker Traverse   V2 5+     Boulder   Heel Hooker Boulder
Rock Scar   V3+ 6A+     Boulder   Lamb Boulder
The Specialist   V4 6B     Boulder   Lamb Boulder
Sunset Arete   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     TR, 1 pitch, 30'   Ram Rock
Sunset Face Right   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     TR, 1 pitch, 30'   Ram Rock
Osprey   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 30'   Ram Rock
Final Exam   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     TR, 20'   Mammoth Rock
Killer Crack   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c V1 5 R     TR, Boulder, 30'   Ram Rock
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Sunset Boulders

Featured Route For Sunset Boulders
Rock Climbing Photo: Work that crack!

Mid-Term V0 4  CA : San Francisco Bay Area : ... : Mammoth Rock
Starts near the right hand side follows the crack up. Corresponds with number 4 on the picture. Once you have this crack nailed move on to "Final Exam"....[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Sunset Boulders Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The rocks at Sunset taken from the path down to th...
BETA PHOTO: The rocks at Sunset taken from the path down to th...

Comments on Sunset Boulders Add Comment
Show which comments
By Paul Rezucha
From: Alameda
Apr 22, 2003
Goat Rock is a great place to visit. Beautiful setting with quite a few good routes. Expect others as it's a great place to bring beginners because of easy access and small selection of easier routes. Beware that the Falcon Guide Rock Climbing the San Francisco Bay Area by Tresa Black seems to underrate many of the routes here. See my other comments for some of the routes. Because most of the routes are top roped, this doesn't pose a real danger but if bouldering or leading, expect the routes to be a grade or so harder than stated. If you have the time, it is definitely worth the trip to also visit Dry Creek Sea Crag. Another beautiful area with routes ranging from 5.6 and upward.
By Avery Worthing-Jones
Sep 8, 2004
I really liked this area. Kind of a shame that it was the last place I visited on Labor Day weekend. I was pretty burnt out by the time I got there so I was not able to fully enjoy the climbing. I will say this, great view even if you are not going to climb.
By Floyd Hayes
Dec 3, 2009
When I climbed here on November 7, 2009, somebody had recently placed new top-rope anchors atop Sunset Face, Sunset Corner and Pelican Arete.
By splitclimber
Feb 22, 2016
Please tread lightly, avoid trampling vegetation and leave no trace at these beautiful boulders. If coming in large groups, please carpool and consider other climbers experience here. thx.
By Dave Pfurr
Aug 13, 2016
Planning to TR here--probably once in my lifetime--with the family this summer. Will tread lightly in this beautiful place. Any suggestions for gear for rigging top-ropes? I'm thinking static line, cordelettes, locking biners and rope.
By Floyd Hayes
Aug 20, 2016
You will need to free solo or lead easy class 5 (5.4-5.6) to set up a top-rope on the best climbs at Ram Rock. Clipping one notorious bolt (above Sunset Slab) with a carabiner will cross load it on a ledge (I suggest girth hitching it with a sling). Slings and quick draws are all you need to set up top-rope anchors.
By Floyd Hayes
Aug 20, 2016
CHALK BAG FOUND: If you left behind a chalk bag on August 20, 2016, please send me a description of it and, if accurate, I will be happy to return it to you.

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