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Sunset Arete S 

Sunset Arete 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Horan, Mestdagh 1996
Page Views: 340
Submitted By: david goldstein on Aug 3, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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BETA PHOTO: Thunder Point. Sunset Arete (11d) is the sport ro...

Description 

This is a decent line, though the climbing employs more face and slab technique than arete. This climb which is visible from the fence trail follows nine bolts up a broad arete past a couple of roofs. There is a hard move getting to the 2nd roof though the crux comes after the roof when the bolts switch to the right side of the arete.

Beta alert: even though the final three bolts, those above the 2nd roof, are on the right side of the arete, the holds are on the left.

Location 

This is on the left side of Thunder Point, about 100' south of the fence trail.

Protection 

9 bolts.


Photos of Sunset Arete Slideshow Add Photo
Tony Herr on Sunset Arete. Photo: Bob Horan Collec...
Tony Herr on Sunset Arete. Photo: Bob Horan Collec...

Comments on Sunset Arete Add Comment
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By Vanessa
May 21, 2007

I would give this route a bomb rating -- it's completely covered in moss and the movements are also pretty awkward. It definitely does not deserve any stars.
By Sebastiaan Zuidweg
From: Crested Butte, Colorado
Jun 8, 2008

Fun route, exposed, a little dirty but beautiful climb. Two stars in my book!
By Aeon Aki
Administrator
Aug 24, 2008
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

As this route cleans up, it will get even better. Good moves, tricky beta, and a spectacular position. Perhaps a bit over-bolted and still a bit dirty but well worth it if you've climbed out the Oceanic Wall. Get on it!
By slim
Administrator
Aug 16, 2010
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Fun climbing that slowly increases in difficulty. Possibly be a bit careful at the crux, as the rope is wrapped around the arete at a spot where it is sharp and serated. This is definitely the crux here too, with some bear hugging, slapping, and sloper pinching.
By Brent Apgar
From: Out of the Loop
Apr 26, 2014

I agree w/ Aeon. The route has cleaned up quite a bit and is actually very fun. This route legitimately goes straight up the "face" of the arete until the very top.
A little dusty from not having much traffic but totally worth the effort.